Saturday, April 4, 2009

Impressions of Isla Espiritu Santo

This island in Mexico's Sea of Cortez was our oasis. The only sounds we heard were the surf, birds, and Tony our chef singing Mexican ballads as he prepared our meals.

Our tents were placed a few feet from the high tide line. There was a repetitious din at night echoing the strong wind and the surf. Sometimes, I pictured the water rushing through our tents……but, that was just a fantasy.

The sand was white. Since it was a coarse sand made up of particles of shell, the wind did not blow it about. It did not stick….except to wet shoes or feet. Was not at all annoying. Our tents did not have floors. We did not have to be concerned about wiping our feet before entering.

Behind our site….as we climbed up red rocks on the way to the box canyon, we came to a well of brackish water. After a salty day in the sea…on the sea, our guides Jose Juan and Juan Pablo would provide us with a shower. It was almost a ritual as the women walked in a procession across the beach and up the rosy red steep rock formations to the well. In turn, we rinsed, soaped, and rinsed again as the men poured buckets of tepid water over our heads. Must have been soft water as our hair felt soft as baby alpaca afterwards and we felt clean and refreshed.

Baja crew - Our guides were Jose Juan and Juan Pablo. The head chef was Antonio - Tony. We had two panga drivers - one was Eladio. I seemed to be in his panga most of the time. I do not know the name of the other boat man. One thing I found a humerous sign of the times – While we were speeding across the azure waters in our panga, Eladio was text messaging. Later realized that this is how the boatmen communicated and shared news of whale sitings. .

There were two toilets set away from our tents. In four days, you never detected an odor from either of them. Wood chips were used. Paper went in a separate container. Staff kept an eye on the toilets and they were removed before being full. Really remarkable. Always clean. The staff promoted cleanliness as a way to avoid illness. We were instructed to properly wash our hands prior to every meal….etc.

Meals
Fresh fish - Saw a bucket of mackerel being delivered by a local fisherman. That was our lunch for that day. I did not think that I liked mackerel….but, it was very tasty. One day we had fresh shrimp for dinner. Another day a sushi with fish in soy sauce and other seasonings. Do I eat raw fish? No,way! But, I did sample the sushi ….and it was delicious.

We tried goat meat - stewed and also dried like jerky. Our crew had killed and prepared the goat. Tender beef was cooked on grill and cut into small pieces to make up a traditional Mexican dish. For another meal, we had a wonderfully seasoned chicken.

We had salads and avacados at most meals. There were extra vegetable dishes or quesedias made up for vegetarians. If a meal was picante, they would save a portion for me that was not too hot. We had vegetable soups several times. Tortillas were served at each meal. They were very thin not like the ones that I buy at home.

Happy hours - Margaritas, White Russians, Pina Coladas, beer and soda. Guacamole, tostadas, and other delicious appetizers.

We ate well.

I slept well. Dark early. In bed before 9am. Up at around 6am for 7 am tea, coffee, fruit and cereal. The rest of breakfast followed. My favorite breakfast was chillaquiles. Easy to make. Pour a package of corn chips or tortilla chips into a large rectangular pan. Pour salsa on top and then cheese. Bake in oven. Serve with scrambled eggs.

Saturday, March 28, 2009

March 28, 2009 Isla Espiritu Santo

Traveled to La Paz, Baja Sur on March 21. On March 23, we met our guides Jose Juan and Juan Pablo. At the Baja Expeditions warehouse, sixteen women lined up (or scrambled) to be fitted for our wetsuits, fins, snorkels, masks, and lifejackets rather PFDs. We later learned to say PFD as a life jacket will not save your life. We were in and out of tight fitting wet suits until the right size was found. What do you mean that I am not a Medium??? That is what fit me fifteen years ago!

We traveled from the main land across a four mile open area and then along the west coast of Isla Espiritu Santo in two pangas. These boats traveled at a rapid speed and we arrived at Caleta El Candelero or Candlestick Cove. Along the shoreline were eight sun bleached white cabin tents.....each about 15' x'15' with two sleeping cots with mattresses, sleeping bag, sheet, pillow and blanket plus an extra cot for our gear. Floor was sand with a floor mat by each cot. This tent was spacious and airy. Since the floor was sand.....we did not worry about bringing sand into our tents. No need to clean feet outside the door. This sand was very coarse and did not cling like desert sand. It was made up of sea crushed shells.

In addition to our tents there were tents for the crew, a large dining tent with long table and sixteen plastic garden chairs, storage tent, and a cook tent. There were solar panels to provide light at dinner time. The cook tent had a kitchen stove complete with oven.

The setting for our camp was turquoise sea as our front yard and orange rocky hills and canyon behind us. There seemed to be a constant breeze to cool us. Two islands in our cove provided a launching place for the many pelicans and gulls. We could sit and watch the pelicans dive over and over again for their catch of fish.

Our first challenge was to take part in the required "dry exit" from a kayak. Many of us had a fear of this.....I being one of them. Others did not want to get dunk their hair in salty water. We all had to take part. With trepidation, we waded out almost to the first island before we found water deep enough for the test. Elaine bravely volunteered to go first. When it was my turn, it was not as bad as anticipated. My partner and I tipped over the kayak, we were suspended upside down, pulled tab on skirt, pushed to the side, and we were out.Phew! Glad to get that out of the way.

It was a bit windy with waves for our first day of kayaking. Our in experience with sea kayaks and the useful pedals controling the rudder, kept us in our cove for the first lesson. In the afternoon we snorkeled around Monument Island.....one of the islands visible from our campsite. For a first experience, it was somewhat interesting. There were many fish....but, not a huge variety. Water was cool, but, I was comfortable staying in the water for about 45 minutes since I was wearing my wetsuit.

The next day was calmer and we ventured out to Calleta Ballena a couple of coves away from our camp. Beached at Ballena Playa and took a short, steep hike up the red rocks to an overlook with pictographs of a bird. From our high point, we looked out at the blue waters and our colorful kayaks lined up on the white beach below.

After lunch, we snorkeled around the island in front of our site. This time, I saw more fish plus two starfish.

Our next morning's excursion was to Islas Los Isoltes where there is a colony of 400 sea lions......and an elephant seal. On our way we encountered several dolphins and watched them for a while.

Then we continued to our sea lion island destination. Many of us were apprehensive about snorkeling with the sea lions (myself included). It turned out to be a great experience. Perhaps that was because the sea lions did not get as close to us as they did the last time I was here. What a great experience to listen to the barking of the sea lions and to watch them play. The big males were black, the females were brown, and the nine month old pups were both colors. It amazed me how they are able to climb up on the rocks to lie in stange positions upon the rocky island. We remained in the water for quite a while. As we got closer to the island, the sea lions came curious and came out to play. I only encountered a couple of them....and did not touch them. The experience of being out there with the sea lions was a wonderful one.

I thought that our panga driver was taking us right back to camp following our sea lion snorkel experience. But, no.....we were heading towards the main land. We soon found out why. WHALES. There were blue whales and fin tail whales. We watched them spout and dive over and over again. What a thrill to be so close and to watch them. After lunch at camp, we went back out to watch the whales. This was certainly an unexpected pleasure.

When we awoke on the last island day, it was windy. Some of us kayaked around our cove and others took a hike to the box canyon behind our site.

More later.....time for breakfast at Casabuena.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

March 22, 2009 Walking the Malecon in La Paz

We awoke to cool breezes blowing through our room. Needed to wear a fleece jacket for the next couple of hours. How delightful!! Casual breakfast in the kitchen/dining area of Casabuena. We helped ourselves to cold cerels and pastries, tea and coffee. Everyone in our group got acquainted at sometime over the next hour.

By nine o'clock, jackets were packed away, sunscreen applied, and we were on our way to explore La Paz. Some planned to take a sightseeing tour, others went to church. I , with several others, took a long walk along the Malecon (a wide pedestrian walkway) along the turquoise colored, Sea of Cortez. My guess is that we walked three miles each way. Our destination was an Art Show at the Marina. There was a cool breeze which made the walk very comfortable.

The art show was local art....by ex-pats.....not Mexicans. Being that it was at the Marina where those with mucho dinero dock their yachts.....prices were a bit ..... a lot.....high. It was fun to look. Most of the artists were ex-pats from Canada and the US. The art show was for a good cause.... high school scholarships for local students.

Temperatures were climbing........ shade was becoming sparse as the sun rose in the sky. By noon, Rachel, June, Carol and I were ready to eat lunch. I remembered a promising seaside restaurant that we had passed earlier. Had spoken to the waiter who promised seafood would be served at lunchtime. We returned to "El Kiwi" and were not disappointed. Our table was in a shaded area outdoors with a refreshing breeze. We each tried a different dish and all were very satisfied. I had the camarones ajo (garlic shrimp). Our waiter was friendly and the whole experience was a good one.

We wanted to see the main street of town so we walked to the main plaza opposite the church. There were a few old men on benches and three large shoeshine stands. On one corner was a coffee house for gringos and opposite this a large ice cream shop. The street parallell to the Malecon had many shops.....some open on Sunday. Sidewalks and streets were crumbled so we needed to keep our eyes on the ground in front of us.

One day in La Paz is plenty. We saw much of the city.....a real working city for Mexicans in spite of the many tourists.

My last trip to La Paz was fifteen years ago. There definitely are more tourists at this time. I see more condominiums, and where there is growth....there is Walmart. La Paz is a good jumping off place for sea kayaking....but, I would not want to spend much time here.

March 21, 2009 Group arrives in La Paz

Breakfast at Olivia's restarant across the street. I had plenty of time before our departure to go to the Ceramic Museum and walk about town at an easy pace.

Olivia drove Jo and me to the airport. We had a chance to see that Guadalajara has a fine airport with lovely shopes.....nicer than most. Joined part of our group who had flown from Boston to Houston to Guadalajara ready for their next two links. Our flight stopped in a city whose name I did not recognize....Colima, Mexico. http://www.mexconnect.com/en/articles/2803-the-state-of-colima-mexico-resource-page Looked like a place to check out. Then we were off to La Paz.

Casabuena is our home for two nights. As I expected .....it is wonderful.....feels Mexican.....not a Holiday Inn.....funky......every room is different......wonderful kitchen, dining, and living room space for groups. Check out http://www.geocities.com/casabuenalapaz/ It was dinner time when we arrived. Broke into small groups and walked either to a nearby local Parilla or along the Malecon to something more substancial. I chose the Parilla (a restaurant which primarily serves meat.)

Cool evening.....good sleeping weather. Quiet room.

Friday, March 20, 2009

March 20, 2009 - Reflections of Tlaquepaque

As I walked to school this morning, I stopped and reflected on what was happening all around me. It was there every morning, but today, I wanted to be more aware and carry the memories back to New Hampshire.

Most of the people were walking with determination - teen aged students - mothers with children - men and women on their way to work. They dressed warmly in sweaters or jackets as the morning air must seem cool to them. I was happy in my short sleeve shirt and capris.

There were workers sweeping the streets. The unemployed and retired sat on park benches reading newspapers or sitting in contemplation. The shoe shine man was busy at work with a short line of customers. I noticed that women my age were not wearing tight clothing. They wore loose blouses and skirts. Had to pause and realize that I am not one of the 45 year olds with whom I have been comparing myself.

There are stands (prestos) set up to serve breakfast tacos and fresh fruit. They do a good business so it must be customary to eat as you walk to work.

I heard the happy chattering and laughing voices of shop employees setting up for their day's work. Music was blasting from various sources. I could also hear "Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz" as the gas man began his day's drive through the streets.

I waited for bright yellow taxis and bicycles to pass at the cross streets. I greeted our tour guide/policeman, Tony, as he passed on his bicycle. There was a man peddeling a bike which had a compartment in the front with a huge chunk of ice. Chances are that he was delivering it to an ice cream maker. There are some who shave the ice and pour different flavored concentrates on it. Not knowing where the ice has been or how it was made, I stay clear of that kind of street food.

I have been impressed by the city's attempt at recycling. Trash cans are labeled for compostibles, recyclable, and other trash. You see little trash in the streets or on sidewalks.

Lovers pass hand in hand. A child goes by in his dragon costume. There will be celebrations later today and tomorrow to celebrate the first day of Spring.

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Grand Finale...... to a wonderful two weeks in Tlaquepaque.

After packing for tomorrow's departure, Jo and I took one final walk around Tlaquepaque entering galleries that we had not noticed previously. Sun was setting and the sky at the end of Independencia was a dark orange. When we reached the Jardin there were rows of chairs set up facing a stage in front of the gazebo. Not many seats were still available.....so we decided to select our seats and then determine what the entertainment for the evening might be. We were pleased when our classmate, Ellie, arrived and found one of the last chairs and moved beside us.

This was a family event. Three, perhaps four generations sat or stood together. Entertainment began with clowns performing for the youngsters. For the next ninty minutes, we were treated to folk dancers, singers, and Mariachis. These were the best of the Mariachis. The back drop for the Jardin and the program were the brightly lit churches of Tlaquepaque. Brilliantn fireworks against the dark sky added to the celebration.

About half way through the program, an attractive red headed, woman came through the audience with bottles of Tequila and poured shots of the local beverage for all who cared to indulge (at no cost). She even came around with seconds. One was enough for me. Now...if it had been Margaritas instead of straight Tequila ?? who knows?? On stage there was a competition among volunteers to see who could howl like a Mariachi....after one, two, three shots of Tequila.

Program was over at around 9:15. Everyone seemed to find their favorite food vendor and ate their evening meal - cena. The big meal is eaten mid-day so a snack is perfect.....especially in this festive setting. For 16 pesos (a little over a dollar) we had a slice of delicious mushroom pizza and a coke at a parkside presto. There was a light breeze in the air as the three of us sat at an sidewalk table and spoke of our shared experiences over the past two weeks.

This is the life...... life in Tlaquepaque on a beautiful spring evening.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

March 19, 2009

Up before 5 am, as I know that the days in Tlaquepaque are winding down. Quiet at that hour. Buses do not run often, dogs are still asleep, no music in the air, just a peaceful silence. My jardin is cool and I need to wear a shirt over my pajamas. The sky overhead is still black with a sprinkling of stars. The air in Tlaquepaque is clear and clean. I go back inside to read until six when the church bells ring in the hour and the chirping of birds welcomes in the new day.

During our first class, Monica suggested that we go for a walk through the Jardin and along Independencia. There were many white tents and a stage set up in the Jardin. Posters informed us that there was an ecological event about protecting the water in Tlaquepaque.

As we walked along Independencia we heard and saw a parade of youngsters...starting with the first graders through eighth marching and chanting "Cuido Agua"..... (take care of water). The smallest of the children were in the costumes of critters of nature.......bees, animals, butterflies, etc. I stood at the side and took photos. One little tot ran over to me and gave me a picture that he had drawn of a boy holding two pots of water. Now, that is a picture that I will save as a momento of this trip. Their march ended at the Jardin where the children took part in a puppet show educating them about the conservation and protection of water.

Ellie had suggested that we stop to see Antigua Galleria. This is a mansion built in 1850 by a rich Guadalajara family as their weekend home. The front rooms today act as a show room for fine furniture and accessories. We were able to walk through these rooms to the interior courtyard and jardin. The gardens are large and the property and house spread out to the next block. We stood and admired the beauty of the garden and residence.

Monica led us through the public market stopping to explain how different fruits and vegetables were prepared.

Straight home at 2:00. Lunch and computer.

I actually fell asleep after lunch while trying to read. It was either that I was trying out a Mexican siesta.....or the fact that I was up before 5 am.

Mis Amigas - Kate, Karin, Connie, Barbara and Malia arrived around 7 pm. With Jo, we sat on the patio overlooking my garden for a while before walking to el Nahual for dinner. They were full of news of the places that they visited during the past week. They covered over 700 miles in their rented car visiting cities and villages and the sea side. Their experiences were all positive. They never paid more than =$12 per night per person for lodging. They raved about some of the hostels. I would love to travel with these gals as they seek budget accommodations and places to eat. They follow one of my favorite phrases of wisdom: 'The Difference between Adventure and Adversity is Attitude."

They fly back to the states tomorrow. Perhaps we will get together in August, at Barbara's house.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

March 18, 2009 Veggie Deprivation

The past few days, I have had great meals.....but, very few vegetables. No excuse for this since I have a full kitchen. So, it was off to the mercado first thing this morning. For = $1.50 I bought 4 small avacados, two green squash, one tomato, 1 small broccoli, four carrots, and three bananas. All set. Hurried home from school to prepare my lunch of broccoli and squash. Some people need a drink as their fix .... I need my veggies. Most of the time when I travel, it is hard to find restaurants that serve enough vegetables to please me.

School went well. Monica and Alejandra did a fine job of keeping my attention. I wish that I could be in classes for another week. Finally, I think I can remember the past tense.

Sylvie delivered my fired ceramics. Surprise! They look pretty good for a first attempt. I told Walter that I would prepare a description of the Ceramics Workshop for future students so that they would be better prepared than I was.

Borrowed a book of Mexican recipes. It seems to be Vegetarian Cookbook. I spent this afternoon creating another blog with my favorites of these recipes. You can access them at http://kathysmexicanrecipes.blogspot.com/ If you like vegetarian cooking, there are some mouth watering recipes there. I plan to cook some of these for my weekend trips at Pembrook. Will also try them out with my book club friends.

Dinner at Canela, an upscale restaurant in a beautifully decorated interior courtyard. I enjoyed the Mole Poblano (chicken breast, mole, and rice). This mole was the best that I have tasted....sweet and I could taste the chocolate. Sun set and darkness ascended while we were dining. The patio was magically illuminated by lanterns and candles. Would have been even more perfect if Jo had been a Joe..... Oh well, cannot have everything.

Walking back, I was more aware than ever of the loud music everywhere. Street food was being prepared and served on every corner.....and in between. Each night, I pass someone making fried dough. It looks so light and fuffy and must taste good with the addition of jelly and other topping which is offered. I am always too full to stop for this treat. Only two more nights and two more opportunities. I am going to miss these evening walks about town.