On Sunday, I tried to take a Tapatio Bus to Guadalajara. Because of road closures (due to fiesta in Guadalajara) the story kept changing about what time the bus would depart. I gave up and found other things to do.
Today, I was down to my last four possible days to tour Guadalajara. Decided to skip my second class and leave school at 11:00am. Hurried to the bus stop where the Tapatio Bus stops. An information person told me that "Today the bus will not stop there!" I had to hurry several blocks to another possible bus stop. Ah, bus was there ....but, no driver. Met up with some Americans who said that the bus was scheduled to leave at that moment. Fifteen minutes later, we were on our way taking in the views from the open second level of the bus. I was prepared with a hat and sunscreen. Not too bad when we were moving. The Tapatio bus is an "On and Off" bus. You wear a paper bracelet which entitles you to get on and off until 8:30pm. There are two buses and routes; one for Tlaquepaque and one for Guadalajara. You can go from one to the other or take time to sightsee in between.
I got off at the exchange location which was the historic center of Guadalajara. Had not a clue where I was. Each map was a little different. Within ten minutes I was oriented and fortunately had been walking towards my destination - Hospicio Institue Cabanas, a world heritage site. This museum once was a House of Charity and Mercy run by nuns, is now known for its collection of murals and other art work by Jose Clemente Orozco.
I have always enjoyed the work of Mexican muralists....such as Diego Rivera.....but, the work of Orozco does not appeal to me at all. In my opinion his pallet was limited and his figures were not at all warm and friendly.
On the positive side.....the museum was free today and they had a very pleasant cafe. I sat out in the patio in the shade and slowly ate while reviewing Guadalajara maps and touring suggestions. I was their only customer....after all who else but an American would eat as early as 1:00 pm.
Teatro Degoiado seemed to be closed to tourists. The exterior was being renovated. Took a walk through the Mercado San Juan de Dios. For me, it was just another market.
Everywhere there seemed to be a lot of traffic and a lot of people. Nothing negative....just a fact. It was hot in the sun...and not much cooler in the shade. Did not have the inclination to walk to other sites. Hopped on the Guadalajara Tapatio bus and listened via earphones to the narrated tour.
Much to my surprise and disappointment, I did not think that Guadalajara was a beautiful city. The heat of the day may have played a part in this. Also, all the streets are torn up to bury power lines. Would I return to Guadalajara or recommend the city to others?? No, not at all. I felt very safe there. People were pleasant. I just did not like all of the traffic, noise, and congestion. Mind you, I travel to cities all over the world and enjoy them. So it is not that I do not like cities.
So, I am very happy to be back "home" in Tlaquepaque. All feels good here and I do not mind the heat!
What cities of Mexico would I recommend? I have enjoyed some small cities such as Oaxaca, San Cristibol de las Casas, Puebla, Guanajuato. My friends highly recommend Merida in the Yucatan. I was there briefly and did not have much time to get to know the city. I like Mexico City. The Museum of Anthropology is one of the finest museums in the world. I have visited art musems, the Theater of Fine Arts, plaza of the Mariachis, many parks..... My sister and I had a wonderful visit there one December when the city was preparing for Christmas. The holiday decorations and Christmas Market provided a wonderful back drop. We did not hesitate to take the Metro to outlying areas of the city. The Metros were interesting as they took the illiterate into consideration. Metro stations were marked with a name and symbol. If you could not read, you knew that the Eagle Station comes after the Pyramid Station and so on....
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Sunday, March 15, 2009
March 16, 2009 - Dia de Benito Juarez
Today is a holiday in Mexico, the birthday of Benito Juarez.....well almost....his birthday is March 21. The Mexicans have recently started following the custom of the USA of celebrating holidays on a Monday to provide a long weekend.
When I read about Benito Juarez, I think of President Obama. In 1858, Juarez was the first indigenous man to be elected to the presidency of Mexico. He was Zapotec Amerindian. Through hard work and many struggles, he graduated from the university, became a lawyer and defended the indigenous communities. He held local and state offices before working up to the presidency. Once in office, he worked with the liberals to make many reforms and laws. One of the most important was the separation of church and state. Juarez and his staff were responsible for forcing the church to give up riches and properties to the state. Juarez served five terms as president. His actions served as an example for all of Latin America.
Do some googling of "Benito Juarez" and see if you do not recognize similarities betweeen Juarez and Obama.
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The Mexican students studying at Guadalajara Learning Center were off celebrating their holiday. For us students of Spanish it was classes as usual. This week, I am once again in a class with Ellie. Our instructors are Monica and _____________ forgive my senior moment.... ; two hours of study with each. Cannot say that I absorb the information very well as it is all oral. I am learning to tune my ears to espanol and that is really why I am attending the school.
Jo and I ate our mid-day meal at a restaurant on Independencia....one with a sidewalk cafe. What I ate was not as important as the location. Could not have had a better viewing point for people watching. My number one observation was that the Mexican women and girls sure do wear tight clothing. I hide my belly with loose blouses. The local women let it all hang out...and stretch their low cut tops over their bulges. Tight hip hugging pants are most popular with the young women of all sizes and shapes. Saw many women with skin tight pants and very high pencil heel shoes. Oh, the price of beauty!
My lunch was good..... a chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms and cream cheese in a flavorful spinach pesto. (I know....that is why I have the bulges!) Jo did a little shopping in the craft stores and then I followed her to a clothing store where my resistance wore thin and I purchased a loose fitting pumpkin orange cotton shirt. I am not ready to adapt to Mexican style of dress. Or perhaps, I am. Maybe this is how the Abuelas (grandmothers) dress. I sometimes forget my age.
It is 6:00 pm, time to open the doors and windows to bring in the cool evening air. I continue to enjoy my apartment. It is set at street level, in the back of the building so that I do not hear as much street noise (cars, buses, etc.) as the front units. The floors in the two bedrooms, bath, dining room, living room, kitchen and patio are all of a glossy tile. I do not know how they keep up the shine. It always looks clean and beautiful. I love the airiness of the kitchen, patio, and my bedroom. I am happy to spend hours ....days....weeks in this space. Need to add that my walk-in shower measures 5' x 5'. Those who know me know that I often stay in shared space of a hostel without a qualm. But, for the moment, I am living the life of luxury. Everything is relative.
Deb Redfield asked why I would not want to live in Ajijic. Ajijic offers a pleasant place to live, but is too far (one hour) from Guadalajara. Walking in Ajijic would be limited. There are communities ...but, then you have wide open spaces. At this time of year, they are dry and brown. Iwould miss the green of home.
I think that I could live in Tlaquepaque during the winter and spring months. This area of Guadalajara is spread out. Walking is limitless. I would like being near Guadalajara for its cultural aspects.
What would I miss the most?? My friends. Friends are my greatest treasure and hard to duplicate. I would miss having a selection of books in English. This could be easily remedied by owning a "Kindle" book marketed by Amazon. Purchased books can easily be delivered electronically.
The solution to missing friends would be for several of us to spend a month together in Tlaquepaque. It is an inexpensive was to spend a vacation.
When I read about Benito Juarez, I think of President Obama. In 1858, Juarez was the first indigenous man to be elected to the presidency of Mexico. He was Zapotec Amerindian. Through hard work and many struggles, he graduated from the university, became a lawyer and defended the indigenous communities. He held local and state offices before working up to the presidency. Once in office, he worked with the liberals to make many reforms and laws. One of the most important was the separation of church and state. Juarez and his staff were responsible for forcing the church to give up riches and properties to the state. Juarez served five terms as president. His actions served as an example for all of Latin America.
Do some googling of "Benito Juarez" and see if you do not recognize similarities betweeen Juarez and Obama.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Mexican students studying at Guadalajara Learning Center were off celebrating their holiday. For us students of Spanish it was classes as usual. This week, I am once again in a class with Ellie. Our instructors are Monica and _____________ forgive my senior moment.... ; two hours of study with each. Cannot say that I absorb the information very well as it is all oral. I am learning to tune my ears to espanol and that is really why I am attending the school.
Jo and I ate our mid-day meal at a restaurant on Independencia....one with a sidewalk cafe. What I ate was not as important as the location. Could not have had a better viewing point for people watching. My number one observation was that the Mexican women and girls sure do wear tight clothing. I hide my belly with loose blouses. The local women let it all hang out...and stretch their low cut tops over their bulges. Tight hip hugging pants are most popular with the young women of all sizes and shapes. Saw many women with skin tight pants and very high pencil heel shoes. Oh, the price of beauty!
My lunch was good..... a chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms and cream cheese in a flavorful spinach pesto. (I know....that is why I have the bulges!) Jo did a little shopping in the craft stores and then I followed her to a clothing store where my resistance wore thin and I purchased a loose fitting pumpkin orange cotton shirt. I am not ready to adapt to Mexican style of dress. Or perhaps, I am. Maybe this is how the Abuelas (grandmothers) dress. I sometimes forget my age.
It is 6:00 pm, time to open the doors and windows to bring in the cool evening air. I continue to enjoy my apartment. It is set at street level, in the back of the building so that I do not hear as much street noise (cars, buses, etc.) as the front units. The floors in the two bedrooms, bath, dining room, living room, kitchen and patio are all of a glossy tile. I do not know how they keep up the shine. It always looks clean and beautiful. I love the airiness of the kitchen, patio, and my bedroom. I am happy to spend hours ....days....weeks in this space. Need to add that my walk-in shower measures 5' x 5'. Those who know me know that I often stay in shared space of a hostel without a qualm. But, for the moment, I am living the life of luxury. Everything is relative.
Deb Redfield asked why I would not want to live in Ajijic. Ajijic offers a pleasant place to live, but is too far (one hour) from Guadalajara. Walking in Ajijic would be limited. There are communities ...but, then you have wide open spaces. At this time of year, they are dry and brown. Iwould miss the green of home.
I think that I could live in Tlaquepaque during the winter and spring months. This area of Guadalajara is spread out. Walking is limitless. I would like being near Guadalajara for its cultural aspects.
What would I miss the most?? My friends. Friends are my greatest treasure and hard to duplicate. I would miss having a selection of books in English. This could be easily remedied by owning a "Kindle" book marketed by Amazon. Purchased books can easily be delivered electronically.
The solution to missing friends would be for several of us to spend a month together in Tlaquepaque. It is an inexpensive was to spend a vacation.
March 15, 2009 - Flexible Agenda
Had all sorts of plans for today, Sunday. Originally, I was going to get up early and take a bus to Guadalajara to see 9:30 performance of Ballet Folklorico. Sleeping late or staying in bed with "East of Eden" seemed like a better option.
Jo and I planned to have a leisurely breakfast at a restaurant and walk about town before catching the 12:30 Tapatio Tour Bus to Guadalajara. After breakfast of huevos divorciado (two eggs side by side, one with salsa roja and ther other with salsa verde.) , went to Pila Seca (off Independencia) to confirm the tour bus info. Ran into our walking tour guide "Tony". He told us that because there were big fiestas in Guadalajara today, the roads would be closed and there would be no bus until 2:30 pm. The day would be more than half over by that time. I can leave earlier than this on a school day. Needed to switch gears.....
Jo and I did not have an alternate plan but, took this opportunity to browse in the Galleries along Indepenedencia. The most fascinating was that of Sergio Bustamante. http://www.sergiobustamante.com.mx/ His creative works ranged from jewelry to shoes to life sized sculptures. They were whimsical. He even had a dining room set where some of the table and chair legs were carved as shoes and boots. Some of his larger sculptures were in the outdoor gardens and pools.
I purchased small items such as, painted, wooden boxes, ceramic earrings, small beaded pots, tin box and mirrors. The joy was in the viewing all handicrafts and arts. I dont know of any other small city that has so many tasteful, quality crafts in one locale. In addition to the shops, there were street artists and craftspeople. Time passed and it was time for almuerzo (lunch). Thought it best to find a restaurant off the pedestrian way. It might be less expensive. Did not need to go far and found Casa Tequila. No, we did not go to a tequila bar....but, to a wonderful interior patio and cafe. Because there was no roof, we were able to look up and see the Basilica ...white against a cobalt blue sky. Walls of the cafe were painted the color of orange/red clay. The contrast with the sky was most appealing. I read camarones on the menu and decided to take a chance with the Tortitas de Camaron con Nopales. I know that carmarones are shrimp and Nopales are the chopped up leaves of the prickly pear cactus. This meal was served with rice. The camarones turned out to be a thin "shrimp burgers" in a salsa roja with the cut up nopales. It was a little bit picante, but the rice and tortillas helped. Another local meal to check off the list. It was okay...but, not to be repeated. We enjoyed our beautiful, young waitress. She was very friendly and accommodating. She even brought out her pet white rabbit for us to see.
While out walking, decided to check out Librerias Gonvill, a bookstore which is located next to Walmart. I was able to find ten reasonably priced children's book to add to my sister Suzanne's Library for the children of Carbonal de Grecia, Costa Rica.
Suzanne and Ron have lived in Costa Rica for over two years. They are living with the local Ticos....not in an American compound. Last March, Suzanne conceived of the idea of a library for the children who live in her neighborhood when she learned that they did not have access to books. This library in their home is open to the migrant Nicaraguan children as well as the local Ticos (I wonder if children are called Tocitos or Toquitos?). Suzanne remembered how important the public library was for her as a child. Over the past year, she has purchased or has had donated over 300 children's books written in Spanish. A couple of months ago, when they learned that their good friend and neighbor had been layed off from his job, Suzanne and Ron decided that this was as good a time as any to provide work for their friend......and to build a larger library as an addition on their home. This new library has an outside entrance so local volunteers can keep the library open when Suzanne and Ron are not at home. "Biblioteca de Susanna Para Ninos" will have its Grand Opening Celebration on April 11, 2009.
Suzanne keeps an eye on EBay and when she finds a good price on books makes a purchase and has the books sent to friends in the US who plan to make a trip to Costa Rica. I try to keep an eye out for books...but, living in northern New Hampshire, I rarely if ever, see a book written in Spanish.
If anyone has access to children's books in Spanish and would like to donate them.... we would be most grateful. My next trip to CosaRica will be in December. I plan to carry as many books as will fit in two pieces of luggage and not go over the fifty pound per bag limit.
Guess that I got sidetracked....but, for a good cause.
Jo and I planned to have a leisurely breakfast at a restaurant and walk about town before catching the 12:30 Tapatio Tour Bus to Guadalajara. After breakfast of huevos divorciado (two eggs side by side, one with salsa roja and ther other with salsa verde.) , went to Pila Seca (off Independencia) to confirm the tour bus info. Ran into our walking tour guide "Tony". He told us that because there were big fiestas in Guadalajara today, the roads would be closed and there would be no bus until 2:30 pm. The day would be more than half over by that time. I can leave earlier than this on a school day. Needed to switch gears.....
Jo and I did not have an alternate plan but, took this opportunity to browse in the Galleries along Indepenedencia. The most fascinating was that of Sergio Bustamante. http://www.sergiobustamante.com.mx/ His creative works ranged from jewelry to shoes to life sized sculptures. They were whimsical. He even had a dining room set where some of the table and chair legs were carved as shoes and boots. Some of his larger sculptures were in the outdoor gardens and pools.
I purchased small items such as, painted, wooden boxes, ceramic earrings, small beaded pots, tin box and mirrors. The joy was in the viewing all handicrafts and arts. I dont know of any other small city that has so many tasteful, quality crafts in one locale. In addition to the shops, there were street artists and craftspeople. Time passed and it was time for almuerzo (lunch). Thought it best to find a restaurant off the pedestrian way. It might be less expensive. Did not need to go far and found Casa Tequila. No, we did not go to a tequila bar....but, to a wonderful interior patio and cafe. Because there was no roof, we were able to look up and see the Basilica ...white against a cobalt blue sky. Walls of the cafe were painted the color of orange/red clay. The contrast with the sky was most appealing. I read camarones on the menu and decided to take a chance with the Tortitas de Camaron con Nopales. I know that carmarones are shrimp and Nopales are the chopped up leaves of the prickly pear cactus. This meal was served with rice. The camarones turned out to be a thin "shrimp burgers" in a salsa roja with the cut up nopales. It was a little bit picante, but the rice and tortillas helped. Another local meal to check off the list. It was okay...but, not to be repeated. We enjoyed our beautiful, young waitress. She was very friendly and accommodating. She even brought out her pet white rabbit for us to see.
While out walking, decided to check out Librerias Gonvill, a bookstore which is located next to Walmart. I was able to find ten reasonably priced children's book to add to my sister Suzanne's Library for the children of Carbonal de Grecia, Costa Rica.
Suzanne and Ron have lived in Costa Rica for over two years. They are living with the local Ticos....not in an American compound. Last March, Suzanne conceived of the idea of a library for the children who live in her neighborhood when she learned that they did not have access to books. This library in their home is open to the migrant Nicaraguan children as well as the local Ticos (I wonder if children are called Tocitos or Toquitos?). Suzanne remembered how important the public library was for her as a child. Over the past year, she has purchased or has had donated over 300 children's books written in Spanish. A couple of months ago, when they learned that their good friend and neighbor had been layed off from his job, Suzanne and Ron decided that this was as good a time as any to provide work for their friend......and to build a larger library as an addition on their home. This new library has an outside entrance so local volunteers can keep the library open when Suzanne and Ron are not at home. "Biblioteca de Susanna Para Ninos" will have its Grand Opening Celebration on April 11, 2009.
Suzanne keeps an eye on EBay and when she finds a good price on books makes a purchase and has the books sent to friends in the US who plan to make a trip to Costa Rica. I try to keep an eye out for books...but, living in northern New Hampshire, I rarely if ever, see a book written in Spanish.
If anyone has access to children's books in Spanish and would like to donate them.... we would be most grateful. My next trip to CosaRica will be in December. I plan to carry as many books as will fit in two pieces of luggage and not go over the fifty pound per bag limit.
Guess that I got sidetracked....but, for a good cause.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
March 14, 2009 - Lake Chapala and Ajijic
Saturday - No school.
Jill led a field trip to Lake Chapala and Ajijic. Jo, Ellie, Kent, and I joined Jill and our driver, Miguel. It was a forty five minute drive to Mexico's largest lake. They have a lovely Malecon (waterfront walk way). We boarded our own boat with a canopy to shade us from the strong rays of the sun. It was cooler out on the water as we cruised along the shoreline. I was surprised to observe a flock of white pelicans and egrets roosting off shore. Jacaranda trees are in full bloom during March. Their purple blossoms on wide spreading branches gave color to the landscape.
After many years of low water, Lake Chapala is very full. Jill credited this to a large amount of rain and also ecological efforts that are being practiced to clean up the lake. The lake certainly is an attraction for the tourists Many Canadians and people from the United States have retired to Chapala and Ajijic. I took a twenty minute walk around Chapala stopping at the market and church. While the waterfront is nice....there is nothing else that would attract me to this town.
Next stop was Ajijic. This is the town where my parents were to settle if they had moved to Mexico in 1959. I could live there.....but, do not think that I would choose to do so. It is a lively town with plazas, pedestrian walkways, many restaurants, shops and community art center. Buildings were painted in the bright "Mexican" colors, that I love. There was time to walk down to the waterfront, visit the church and art center. Sat in the plaza and enjoyed a Nuez Helado.... ice cream cone. After almost a week of no sweets, I have had ice cream for two days in a row. The Arts Center had an exhibit of paintings that I appreciated because of their strong primary colors. I took a prize winning photo at the church entrance - of Jill and Ellie standing in the doorway with a perfect reflection on the highly glossed floor.
Miguel drove us further along the lake to San Juan Cosala with its upscale hotel and spa - Monte Coxala - Spa de Altura. http://www.montecoxala.com/ It is a place to enjoy the thermal baths, spa treatments, yoga and tennis. The resort is beautifully landscaped with recreated Mayan figures constructed to look like ruins. We sat on the upper level of the open air, thatched roof restaurant and had a drink while looking out over Lake Chapala.
This was a great day trip (6 1/2 hours total) from Tlaquepaque. So glad that we went with Jill and Miguel. Miguel is an excellent driver and Jill was informative and it was nice to spend the day with her.
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Other thoughts and observations from my Cinco de Mayo apartment -
No more rooster crowing. Did he end up in a soup pot???
Heard a train last night and early this morning. Jill said that it was for freight, not passenger service.
Asked Jill about the "Rainy Season". From May through August, it rains mainly at night...and for a couple of hours during the day. You have to be wise when walking through the city as streets become flooded. Wear rubber boots and carry TWO umbrellas. One umbrella is held over your head and the second is placed at an angle by your legs. This is your defense against cars that splash when passing you.
Church bells ring in every hour. Sometimes there is also a carillon.
Every day, trucks drive up and down the streets with their loud speaker system playing a recorded melody "Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz" If you need a new tank of propane, you hear the delivery truck coming from blocks away and have time to run out to stop the driver. And if you miss him.....dont worry...he will be around again and again and again......Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz. I sing this tune in my sleep.
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Dinner at a mariscos (seafood) restaurant block from Parian. Margarita, Shrimp with Butter and Garlic, rice, fresh vegetables, and salad for the equivalent of $10 US. Jo and I walked after dinner before returning to our apartments.
Jill led a field trip to Lake Chapala and Ajijic. Jo, Ellie, Kent, and I joined Jill and our driver, Miguel. It was a forty five minute drive to Mexico's largest lake. They have a lovely Malecon (waterfront walk way). We boarded our own boat with a canopy to shade us from the strong rays of the sun. It was cooler out on the water as we cruised along the shoreline. I was surprised to observe a flock of white pelicans and egrets roosting off shore. Jacaranda trees are in full bloom during March. Their purple blossoms on wide spreading branches gave color to the landscape.
After many years of low water, Lake Chapala is very full. Jill credited this to a large amount of rain and also ecological efforts that are being practiced to clean up the lake. The lake certainly is an attraction for the tourists Many Canadians and people from the United States have retired to Chapala and Ajijic. I took a twenty minute walk around Chapala stopping at the market and church. While the waterfront is nice....there is nothing else that would attract me to this town.
Next stop was Ajijic. This is the town where my parents were to settle if they had moved to Mexico in 1959. I could live there.....but, do not think that I would choose to do so. It is a lively town with plazas, pedestrian walkways, many restaurants, shops and community art center. Buildings were painted in the bright "Mexican" colors, that I love. There was time to walk down to the waterfront, visit the church and art center. Sat in the plaza and enjoyed a Nuez Helado.... ice cream cone. After almost a week of no sweets, I have had ice cream for two days in a row. The Arts Center had an exhibit of paintings that I appreciated because of their strong primary colors. I took a prize winning photo at the church entrance - of Jill and Ellie standing in the doorway with a perfect reflection on the highly glossed floor.
Miguel drove us further along the lake to San Juan Cosala with its upscale hotel and spa - Monte Coxala - Spa de Altura. http://www.montecoxala.com/ It is a place to enjoy the thermal baths, spa treatments, yoga and tennis. The resort is beautifully landscaped with recreated Mayan figures constructed to look like ruins. We sat on the upper level of the open air, thatched roof restaurant and had a drink while looking out over Lake Chapala.
This was a great day trip (6 1/2 hours total) from Tlaquepaque. So glad that we went with Jill and Miguel. Miguel is an excellent driver and Jill was informative and it was nice to spend the day with her.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other thoughts and observations from my Cinco de Mayo apartment -
No more rooster crowing. Did he end up in a soup pot???
Heard a train last night and early this morning. Jill said that it was for freight, not passenger service.
Asked Jill about the "Rainy Season". From May through August, it rains mainly at night...and for a couple of hours during the day. You have to be wise when walking through the city as streets become flooded. Wear rubber boots and carry TWO umbrellas. One umbrella is held over your head and the second is placed at an angle by your legs. This is your defense against cars that splash when passing you.
Church bells ring in every hour. Sometimes there is also a carillon.
Every day, trucks drive up and down the streets with their loud speaker system playing a recorded melody "Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz" If you need a new tank of propane, you hear the delivery truck coming from blocks away and have time to run out to stop the driver. And if you miss him.....dont worry...he will be around again and again and again......Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz. I sing this tune in my sleep.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dinner at a mariscos (seafood) restaurant block from Parian. Margarita, Shrimp with Butter and Garlic, rice, fresh vegetables, and salad for the equivalent of $10 US. Jo and I walked after dinner before returning to our apartments.
Friday, March 13, 2009
March 13, 2009 - Friday the 13th - I Quit
Class at Guadalajara Language Center was pleasant as always. The two hours passed quickly. All was well.
Ceramics Workshop. I know that I need to plan ahead and create my own designs. Later today, I will find a bookstore and purchase a book with illustrations of ceramic designs. I will work hard drawing the designs and be ready by Monday to transfer my designs to ceramic pieces. I feel good about this. Finished painting a cup and saucer and gave myself credit that they look pretty good. Ah, success.
Then, I learn that there will be NO Ceramic Workshop on Monday, as that is a holiday - the birthday of Benito Juarez. This, I understand. Still, I was grumbling to myself.....that I paid for ten days and was getting shorted by one day less. I kept silent about this. And then, I am told that everything must be painted by Tuesday afternoon as they plan to fire the kiln that night. I can do no more painting after Tuesday. That gives me one day, Tuesday, to do everything. So what am I to do on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday??? Sylvie said to come in on Saturday and Sunday to paint...but, I would be alone in the factory. I have made other plans so that is not an option.
At that point, I lost it and said that I quit!! Went back to the school and told Walter that I would take two extra hours of Spanish each day, in place of the workshop.
Where does the fault lie??? Agenda of workshop should have been explained more clearly. It should not be scheduled from Monday through Friday if there will be nothing to do for three of the days during the final week. They should not charge for three days of nothing.....and also charge for a holiday when they are closed They should have examples of designs to copy. They should not allow students to sit around doing nothing. More work should be provided while waiting for ceramics to harden in molds. I did not have enough support. I am disappointed. The Ceramics Workshop was what attracted me to Tlaquepaque. I do not like to be a quitter. BUT que sera, sera ..... and as I always say, things happen for a reason. I guess that I will need to wait and see.
Jo and I walked home together stopping to sample one of the local specialties - Torta Ahogada. This is a torpedo shaped crusty roll filled with shredded pork and has a tomato salsa poured over it. You dip as you eat. Not bad. Just be sure to have a good supply of napkins available.
Sun starts setting at around 6:30 pm. I observed the sky painted with shades of scarlett as I walked west toward the center of Tlaquepaque. As the sun descends into the horizon, temperatures cool, lights come on, people come out. The plaza comes to life. It is like watering a thirsty garden and watching life return. Friday night means music in the streets and the park. I took a long walk stopping to listen to the performers....and to watch the listeners. Of course there are the nightly vendors of local specialties. I purposely skipped dinner so that I would have room to try a couple of selections. Dessert first - tequila ice cream. Not bad.....cool, refreshing, and a pleasant taste.
Roasted ears of corn are very popular. They lo0k tempting, but, I decided to opt for the corn that had been removed from the cob. The corn is steamed and scooped onto a long narrow styrofoam dish. Creama (light cream?) and shredded cheese are poured on the corn. Looks delicious. How does it taste? Well, the corn is not sweet. It is kind of starchy. The added sauce helps. Would I order it again? Nope....I will try something else.
The vendors also sell cups filled with what I learned are steamed garbanzo beans in their green shells. It appears that you eat the whole thing. The woman offered to let me try one. Check garbanzo beans off the list. The shell is kind of pithy. Still have not tried the fried grasshoppers. Maybe tomorrow.
Ceramics Workshop. I know that I need to plan ahead and create my own designs. Later today, I will find a bookstore and purchase a book with illustrations of ceramic designs. I will work hard drawing the designs and be ready by Monday to transfer my designs to ceramic pieces. I feel good about this. Finished painting a cup and saucer and gave myself credit that they look pretty good. Ah, success.
Then, I learn that there will be NO Ceramic Workshop on Monday, as that is a holiday - the birthday of Benito Juarez. This, I understand. Still, I was grumbling to myself.....that I paid for ten days and was getting shorted by one day less. I kept silent about this. And then, I am told that everything must be painted by Tuesday afternoon as they plan to fire the kiln that night. I can do no more painting after Tuesday. That gives me one day, Tuesday, to do everything. So what am I to do on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday??? Sylvie said to come in on Saturday and Sunday to paint...but, I would be alone in the factory. I have made other plans so that is not an option.
At that point, I lost it and said that I quit!! Went back to the school and told Walter that I would take two extra hours of Spanish each day, in place of the workshop.
Where does the fault lie??? Agenda of workshop should have been explained more clearly. It should not be scheduled from Monday through Friday if there will be nothing to do for three of the days during the final week. They should not charge for three days of nothing.....and also charge for a holiday when they are closed They should have examples of designs to copy. They should not allow students to sit around doing nothing. More work should be provided while waiting for ceramics to harden in molds. I did not have enough support. I am disappointed. The Ceramics Workshop was what attracted me to Tlaquepaque. I do not like to be a quitter. BUT que sera, sera ..... and as I always say, things happen for a reason. I guess that I will need to wait and see.
Jo and I walked home together stopping to sample one of the local specialties - Torta Ahogada. This is a torpedo shaped crusty roll filled with shredded pork and has a tomato salsa poured over it. You dip as you eat. Not bad. Just be sure to have a good supply of napkins available.
Sun starts setting at around 6:30 pm. I observed the sky painted with shades of scarlett as I walked west toward the center of Tlaquepaque. As the sun descends into the horizon, temperatures cool, lights come on, people come out. The plaza comes to life. It is like watering a thirsty garden and watching life return. Friday night means music in the streets and the park. I took a long walk stopping to listen to the performers....and to watch the listeners. Of course there are the nightly vendors of local specialties. I purposely skipped dinner so that I would have room to try a couple of selections. Dessert first - tequila ice cream. Not bad.....cool, refreshing, and a pleasant taste.
Roasted ears of corn are very popular. They lo0k tempting, but, I decided to opt for the corn that had been removed from the cob. The corn is steamed and scooped onto a long narrow styrofoam dish. Creama (light cream?) and shredded cheese are poured on the corn. Looks delicious. How does it taste? Well, the corn is not sweet. It is kind of starchy. The added sauce helps. Would I order it again? Nope....I will try something else.
The vendors also sell cups filled with what I learned are steamed garbanzo beans in their green shells. It appears that you eat the whole thing. The woman offered to let me try one. Check garbanzo beans off the list. The shell is kind of pithy. Still have not tried the fried grasshoppers. Maybe tomorrow.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
March 12, 2009 - In Search of my Buried Creativity
Just a few thoughts as the day begins.
I started to put on my Zapatista earrings,, but had second thoughts. They may be offensive in this part of Mexico. I realized that I had not seen any indigenous people in traditional dress since I arrived. Thinking back, I cannot recall being anywhere in Mexico where the indigenous were not highly represented. I will ask Miguel about this in class today. My first clue that there might be a strong prejudice was from the young woman who sat next to me on the plane. I had told her that I liked viisiting the state of Chiapas and she replied with a negative response about the people.
Another observation is that there are very few North American (Opps, big mistake...Mexico is North America - I meant no US citizens norCanadian) or European tourists. The town is bustling with tourists.....but, they are Mexican or from other Latin American countries.
More later.....time now for breakfast.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Classtime passed quickly with two hours of conversation in spanish. No great revelations today but, time well spent.
Ceramics Workshop. I got right to work on my #7 address tile. I thought that I had done a beautiful job.Then along comes Sylvie. There were no "mal" or "feo" descriptions today.....she just scraped and sanded off the design that I had just painted on the tile and told me to do it over with her design for the flowers. I admit that my flowers were not perfect....and that is fine with me. You dont often see perfect flowers. Perhaps she is treating me as a trainee that would work for her.
Sylvie then hands me a cup and saucer and tells me to paint them. I sit there staring at them, thinking that whatever I do will be wrong. I go blank.....not an ounce of creativity. I have not a clue of how to decorate the cup. There are no stencils or copies of designs available. I take responsibility for that problem, I should have made up some designs in advance. Tonight, I will go study ceramics in shop windows and galleries., take photos and make up a copy to bring with me. At the last minute, a design came to mind and I successfully (so I think) penciled it on to the cup and proceeded to paint.
Creativity takes time. I need to slow down my pace and let any creativity that may be there come to the surface.
Dinner at Nahual - Broiled shrimp over Pesto Fetticcini (sp?).
I started to put on my Zapatista earrings,, but had second thoughts. They may be offensive in this part of Mexico. I realized that I had not seen any indigenous people in traditional dress since I arrived. Thinking back, I cannot recall being anywhere in Mexico where the indigenous were not highly represented. I will ask Miguel about this in class today. My first clue that there might be a strong prejudice was from the young woman who sat next to me on the plane. I had told her that I liked viisiting the state of Chiapas and she replied with a negative response about the people.
Another observation is that there are very few North American (Opps, big mistake...Mexico is North America - I meant no US citizens norCanadian) or European tourists. The town is bustling with tourists.....but, they are Mexican or from other Latin American countries.
More later.....time now for breakfast.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Classtime passed quickly with two hours of conversation in spanish. No great revelations today but, time well spent.
Ceramics Workshop. I got right to work on my #7 address tile. I thought that I had done a beautiful job.Then along comes Sylvie. There were no "mal" or "feo" descriptions today.....she just scraped and sanded off the design that I had just painted on the tile and told me to do it over with her design for the flowers. I admit that my flowers were not perfect....and that is fine with me. You dont often see perfect flowers. Perhaps she is treating me as a trainee that would work for her.
Sylvie then hands me a cup and saucer and tells me to paint them. I sit there staring at them, thinking that whatever I do will be wrong. I go blank.....not an ounce of creativity. I have not a clue of how to decorate the cup. There are no stencils or copies of designs available. I take responsibility for that problem, I should have made up some designs in advance. Tonight, I will go study ceramics in shop windows and galleries., take photos and make up a copy to bring with me. At the last minute, a design came to mind and I successfully (so I think) penciled it on to the cup and proceeded to paint.
Creativity takes time. I need to slow down my pace and let any creativity that may be there come to the surface.
Dinner at Nahual - Broiled shrimp over Pesto Fetticcini (sp?).
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
March 11,2009 - A Full Day
Walked through the fruit and vegetable section of the Indoor Pulbic Market on the way to school. Row upon row of vendors each with attractively displayed goods. I was there with a purpose.... to purchase avacados and tomatoes for my lunch. What a bargain......three avacados, a tomato, and a banana for fifteen pesos.....just a few cents under one US dollar. I am getting spoiled.
School went well. Miguel is so pleasant and presents and corrects in a helpful way. Ellie, my classmate, had a crown fall off her tooth and was waiting for a dental appointment. Met her later after the dentist fixed her up as good as new.......at the cost of $17. I understand from school staff that he is a dentist with an excellent reputation. If I was smart, I would get dental work done here....and it would pay for the trip. Am I planting ideas for those without dental insurance??
Ceramics class did not start out well. I had to wait twenty minutes for Sylvie, my instructor to find a pencil for me. I am not a patient person....and went looking for her a few times. She arrives with the pencil and takes a look at the tiles that I painted yesterday and says "mal" which means BAD. I did not think that they looked "bad", just "primative". Sylvie showed me a finished tile and told me to copy it. I thought that I did my best.....and once again, she comments with a negative "feo" which means "ugly". Before I lost my composition and walked out, things turned around as she showed me "how" to paint the tiles. All I needed was some instruction and it was simple. Spent the next two and a half hours enjoying the feeling of success. Across the shared workspace, there was a middle aged Mexican painter working on a large basin decorated with Day of the Dead figures. He broke the silence and asked me from where I came. We chatted briefly in Spanish and I continued my work. It was good to share the space with him.
Had only an hour long break at home before it was time to go back to the central area to take a scheduled walking tour of Tlaquepaque. Jo, Ellie and I, being Eastcoasters were anxiously waiting at the Info Booth five minutes early. Jill from the school showed up to see that we were in good hands.....and waited with us for twenty five minutes until our guide arrived. He was a police officer who peddled up on his bicycle, wearing cutoffs and what appeared to be a bulletproof vest. Why???? I did not want to hear his answer, so I did not ask.
Tony, our police escort/guide, was friendly and spoke excellent English. Walked through the interior courtyard of the Parian. Tony said that at one time there were 72 bars around the perimiter of Parian.....now there are 36. Tequila is the preferred drink. The Parian was originally built in 1878 as the major marketplace where all kinds of handicrafts were sold.
Tony's position on the police force got us into Presidencia Municipal, the Government Building after closing hours. Lovely first floor courtyard with flowers and fountain. Our attention went to a mural on three walls on next floor. This mural depicted the past, present, and future of Mexico. Well done.
We walked through Jardin Hidalgo to two churches; Parroquia de San Pedro and Santuario de Nuestra Senora de las Soledad. The latter was a rich people's church where poor peasants were beaten or killed for entering. The Parroquia was built for the general public. There is a spring under the Santuario which is believed to have healing powers. Once a year, believers are allowed to go down the interior steps to test the water's powers.
El Refugio Cultural Center was once a hospital run by the Josefina Nuns. They are long gone and work continues today to make this a fine center for the arts. Our guide got himself in trouble for taking us up to the roof top to see the views of the city. Beautiful from up there.....just hope he does not lose his job.
A few blocks away was the Museo Panteleon Panduro, located in the lovely Chapel Patio of the Refugio Cultural Center. It is the proud seat of the National Ceramic Prize and displays present and past winners. The work there is excuisite. I plan to return as we did not have time to fully absorb every piece. We silently entered the former chapel when we heard beautiful instumental music and a trained operatic female voice. It was a joy to listen.
By the time we reached Independencia, the pedestrian walkway, with its shops, galleries and restaurant it was almost 7:00 pm and most galleries were closing. We thanked and said good bye to Tony as this was the final destination of our walking tour.
Jo and I had dinner at el Patio http://www.elpatio.com.mx/ My main course was chicken breast with a mole sauce. We were going to have a Margarita as a starter.....but, our waiter recommended a specialty of the house. Much to our surprise this tequila and fruit drink was served in a large soup bowl.....one for each of us. Delicious.....not sure of how much tequila was in the drink....did not feel anything....but, it was a great thirst quencher.
This was an interest packed day. What will tomorrow bring?
School went well. Miguel is so pleasant and presents and corrects in a helpful way. Ellie, my classmate, had a crown fall off her tooth and was waiting for a dental appointment. Met her later after the dentist fixed her up as good as new.......at the cost of $17. I understand from school staff that he is a dentist with an excellent reputation. If I was smart, I would get dental work done here....and it would pay for the trip. Am I planting ideas for those without dental insurance??
Ceramics class did not start out well. I had to wait twenty minutes for Sylvie, my instructor to find a pencil for me. I am not a patient person....and went looking for her a few times. She arrives with the pencil and takes a look at the tiles that I painted yesterday and says "mal" which means BAD. I did not think that they looked "bad", just "primative". Sylvie showed me a finished tile and told me to copy it. I thought that I did my best.....and once again, she comments with a negative "feo" which means "ugly". Before I lost my composition and walked out, things turned around as she showed me "how" to paint the tiles. All I needed was some instruction and it was simple. Spent the next two and a half hours enjoying the feeling of success. Across the shared workspace, there was a middle aged Mexican painter working on a large basin decorated with Day of the Dead figures. He broke the silence and asked me from where I came. We chatted briefly in Spanish and I continued my work. It was good to share the space with him.
Had only an hour long break at home before it was time to go back to the central area to take a scheduled walking tour of Tlaquepaque. Jo, Ellie and I, being Eastcoasters were anxiously waiting at the Info Booth five minutes early. Jill from the school showed up to see that we were in good hands.....and waited with us for twenty five minutes until our guide arrived. He was a police officer who peddled up on his bicycle, wearing cutoffs and what appeared to be a bulletproof vest. Why???? I did not want to hear his answer, so I did not ask.
Tony, our police escort/guide, was friendly and spoke excellent English. Walked through the interior courtyard of the Parian. Tony said that at one time there were 72 bars around the perimiter of Parian.....now there are 36. Tequila is the preferred drink. The Parian was originally built in 1878 as the major marketplace where all kinds of handicrafts were sold.
Tony's position on the police force got us into Presidencia Municipal, the Government Building after closing hours. Lovely first floor courtyard with flowers and fountain. Our attention went to a mural on three walls on next floor. This mural depicted the past, present, and future of Mexico. Well done.
We walked through Jardin Hidalgo to two churches; Parroquia de San Pedro and Santuario de Nuestra Senora de las Soledad. The latter was a rich people's church where poor peasants were beaten or killed for entering. The Parroquia was built for the general public. There is a spring under the Santuario which is believed to have healing powers. Once a year, believers are allowed to go down the interior steps to test the water's powers.
El Refugio Cultural Center was once a hospital run by the Josefina Nuns. They are long gone and work continues today to make this a fine center for the arts. Our guide got himself in trouble for taking us up to the roof top to see the views of the city. Beautiful from up there.....just hope he does not lose his job.
A few blocks away was the Museo Panteleon Panduro, located in the lovely Chapel Patio of the Refugio Cultural Center. It is the proud seat of the National Ceramic Prize and displays present and past winners. The work there is excuisite. I plan to return as we did not have time to fully absorb every piece. We silently entered the former chapel when we heard beautiful instumental music and a trained operatic female voice. It was a joy to listen.
By the time we reached Independencia, the pedestrian walkway, with its shops, galleries and restaurant it was almost 7:00 pm and most galleries were closing. We thanked and said good bye to Tony as this was the final destination of our walking tour.
Jo and I had dinner at el Patio http://www.elpatio.com.mx/ My main course was chicken breast with a mole sauce. We were going to have a Margarita as a starter.....but, our waiter recommended a specialty of the house. Much to our surprise this tequila and fruit drink was served in a large soup bowl.....one for each of us. Delicious.....not sure of how much tequila was in the drink....did not feel anything....but, it was a great thirst quencher.
This was an interest packed day. What will tomorrow bring?
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