Traveled to La Paz, Baja Sur on March 21. On March 23, we met our guides Jose Juan and Juan Pablo. At the Baja Expeditions warehouse, sixteen women lined up (or scrambled) to be fitted for our wetsuits, fins, snorkels, masks, and lifejackets rather PFDs. We later learned to say PFD as a life jacket will not save your life. We were in and out of tight fitting wet suits until the right size was found. What do you mean that I am not a Medium??? That is what fit me fifteen years ago!
We traveled from the main land across a four mile open area and then along the west coast of Isla Espiritu Santo in two pangas. These boats traveled at a rapid speed and we arrived at Caleta El Candelero or Candlestick Cove. Along the shoreline were eight sun bleached white cabin tents.....each about 15' x'15' with two sleeping cots with mattresses, sleeping bag, sheet, pillow and blanket plus an extra cot for our gear. Floor was sand with a floor mat by each cot. This tent was spacious and airy. Since the floor was sand.....we did not worry about bringing sand into our tents. No need to clean feet outside the door. This sand was very coarse and did not cling like desert sand. It was made up of sea crushed shells.
In addition to our tents there were tents for the crew, a large dining tent with long table and sixteen plastic garden chairs, storage tent, and a cook tent. There were solar panels to provide light at dinner time. The cook tent had a kitchen stove complete with oven.
The setting for our camp was turquoise sea as our front yard and orange rocky hills and canyon behind us. There seemed to be a constant breeze to cool us. Two islands in our cove provided a launching place for the many pelicans and gulls. We could sit and watch the pelicans dive over and over again for their catch of fish.
Our first challenge was to take part in the required "dry exit" from a kayak. Many of us had a fear of this.....I being one of them. Others did not want to get dunk their hair in salty water. We all had to take part. With trepidation, we waded out almost to the first island before we found water deep enough for the test. Elaine bravely volunteered to go first. When it was my turn, it was not as bad as anticipated. My partner and I tipped over the kayak, we were suspended upside down, pulled tab on skirt, pushed to the side, and we were out.Phew! Glad to get that out of the way.
It was a bit windy with waves for our first day of kayaking. Our in experience with sea kayaks and the useful pedals controling the rudder, kept us in our cove for the first lesson. In the afternoon we snorkeled around Monument Island.....one of the islands visible from our campsite. For a first experience, it was somewhat interesting. There were many fish....but, not a huge variety. Water was cool, but, I was comfortable staying in the water for about 45 minutes since I was wearing my wetsuit.
The next day was calmer and we ventured out to Calleta Ballena a couple of coves away from our camp. Beached at Ballena Playa and took a short, steep hike up the red rocks to an overlook with pictographs of a bird. From our high point, we looked out at the blue waters and our colorful kayaks lined up on the white beach below.
After lunch, we snorkeled around the island in front of our site. This time, I saw more fish plus two starfish.
Our next morning's excursion was to Islas Los Isoltes where there is a colony of 400 sea lions......and an elephant seal. On our way we encountered several dolphins and watched them for a while.
Then we continued to our sea lion island destination. Many of us were apprehensive about snorkeling with the sea lions (myself included). It turned out to be a great experience. Perhaps that was because the sea lions did not get as close to us as they did the last time I was here. What a great experience to listen to the barking of the sea lions and to watch them play. The big males were black, the females were brown, and the nine month old pups were both colors. It amazed me how they are able to climb up on the rocks to lie in stange positions upon the rocky island. We remained in the water for quite a while. As we got closer to the island, the sea lions came curious and came out to play. I only encountered a couple of them....and did not touch them. The experience of being out there with the sea lions was a wonderful one.
I thought that our panga driver was taking us right back to camp following our sea lion snorkel experience. But, no.....we were heading towards the main land. We soon found out why. WHALES. There were blue whales and fin tail whales. We watched them spout and dive over and over again. What a thrill to be so close and to watch them. After lunch at camp, we went back out to watch the whales. This was certainly an unexpected pleasure.
When we awoke on the last island day, it was windy. Some of us kayaked around our cove and others took a hike to the box canyon behind our site.
More later.....time for breakfast at Casabuena.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Sunday, March 22, 2009
March 22, 2009 Walking the Malecon in La Paz
We awoke to cool breezes blowing through our room. Needed to wear a fleece jacket for the next couple of hours. How delightful!! Casual breakfast in the kitchen/dining area of Casabuena. We helped ourselves to cold cerels and pastries, tea and coffee. Everyone in our group got acquainted at sometime over the next hour.
By nine o'clock, jackets were packed away, sunscreen applied, and we were on our way to explore La Paz. Some planned to take a sightseeing tour, others went to church. I , with several others, took a long walk along the Malecon (a wide pedestrian walkway) along the turquoise colored, Sea of Cortez. My guess is that we walked three miles each way. Our destination was an Art Show at the Marina. There was a cool breeze which made the walk very comfortable.
The art show was local art....by ex-pats.....not Mexicans. Being that it was at the Marina where those with mucho dinero dock their yachts.....prices were a bit ..... a lot.....high. It was fun to look. Most of the artists were ex-pats from Canada and the US. The art show was for a good cause.... high school scholarships for local students.
Temperatures were climbing........ shade was becoming sparse as the sun rose in the sky. By noon, Rachel, June, Carol and I were ready to eat lunch. I remembered a promising seaside restaurant that we had passed earlier. Had spoken to the waiter who promised seafood would be served at lunchtime. We returned to "El Kiwi" and were not disappointed. Our table was in a shaded area outdoors with a refreshing breeze. We each tried a different dish and all were very satisfied. I had the camarones ajo (garlic shrimp). Our waiter was friendly and the whole experience was a good one.
We wanted to see the main street of town so we walked to the main plaza opposite the church. There were a few old men on benches and three large shoeshine stands. On one corner was a coffee house for gringos and opposite this a large ice cream shop. The street parallell to the Malecon had many shops.....some open on Sunday. Sidewalks and streets were crumbled so we needed to keep our eyes on the ground in front of us.
One day in La Paz is plenty. We saw much of the city.....a real working city for Mexicans in spite of the many tourists.
My last trip to La Paz was fifteen years ago. There definitely are more tourists at this time. I see more condominiums, and where there is growth....there is Walmart. La Paz is a good jumping off place for sea kayaking....but, I would not want to spend much time here.
By nine o'clock, jackets were packed away, sunscreen applied, and we were on our way to explore La Paz. Some planned to take a sightseeing tour, others went to church. I , with several others, took a long walk along the Malecon (a wide pedestrian walkway) along the turquoise colored, Sea of Cortez. My guess is that we walked three miles each way. Our destination was an Art Show at the Marina. There was a cool breeze which made the walk very comfortable.
The art show was local art....by ex-pats.....not Mexicans. Being that it was at the Marina where those with mucho dinero dock their yachts.....prices were a bit ..... a lot.....high. It was fun to look. Most of the artists were ex-pats from Canada and the US. The art show was for a good cause.... high school scholarships for local students.
Temperatures were climbing........ shade was becoming sparse as the sun rose in the sky. By noon, Rachel, June, Carol and I were ready to eat lunch. I remembered a promising seaside restaurant that we had passed earlier. Had spoken to the waiter who promised seafood would be served at lunchtime. We returned to "El Kiwi" and were not disappointed. Our table was in a shaded area outdoors with a refreshing breeze. We each tried a different dish and all were very satisfied. I had the camarones ajo (garlic shrimp). Our waiter was friendly and the whole experience was a good one.
We wanted to see the main street of town so we walked to the main plaza opposite the church. There were a few old men on benches and three large shoeshine stands. On one corner was a coffee house for gringos and opposite this a large ice cream shop. The street parallell to the Malecon had many shops.....some open on Sunday. Sidewalks and streets were crumbled so we needed to keep our eyes on the ground in front of us.
One day in La Paz is plenty. We saw much of the city.....a real working city for Mexicans in spite of the many tourists.
My last trip to La Paz was fifteen years ago. There definitely are more tourists at this time. I see more condominiums, and where there is growth....there is Walmart. La Paz is a good jumping off place for sea kayaking....but, I would not want to spend much time here.
March 21, 2009 Group arrives in La Paz
Breakfast at Olivia's restarant across the street. I had plenty of time before our departure to go to the Ceramic Museum and walk about town at an easy pace.
Olivia drove Jo and me to the airport. We had a chance to see that Guadalajara has a fine airport with lovely shopes.....nicer than most. Joined part of our group who had flown from Boston to Houston to Guadalajara ready for their next two links. Our flight stopped in a city whose name I did not recognize....Colima, Mexico. http://www.mexconnect.com/en/articles/2803-the-state-of-colima-mexico-resource-page Looked like a place to check out. Then we were off to La Paz.
Casabuena is our home for two nights. As I expected .....it is wonderful.....feels Mexican.....not a Holiday Inn.....funky......every room is different......wonderful kitchen, dining, and living room space for groups. Check out http://www.geocities.com/casabuenalapaz/ It was dinner time when we arrived. Broke into small groups and walked either to a nearby local Parilla or along the Malecon to something more substancial. I chose the Parilla (a restaurant which primarily serves meat.)
Cool evening.....good sleeping weather. Quiet room.
Olivia drove Jo and me to the airport. We had a chance to see that Guadalajara has a fine airport with lovely shopes.....nicer than most. Joined part of our group who had flown from Boston to Houston to Guadalajara ready for their next two links. Our flight stopped in a city whose name I did not recognize....Colima, Mexico. http://www.mexconnect.com/en/articles/2803-the-state-of-colima-mexico-resource-page Looked like a place to check out. Then we were off to La Paz.
Casabuena is our home for two nights. As I expected .....it is wonderful.....feels Mexican.....not a Holiday Inn.....funky......every room is different......wonderful kitchen, dining, and living room space for groups. Check out http://www.geocities.com/casabuenalapaz/ It was dinner time when we arrived. Broke into small groups and walked either to a nearby local Parilla or along the Malecon to something more substancial. I chose the Parilla (a restaurant which primarily serves meat.)
Cool evening.....good sleeping weather. Quiet room.
Friday, March 20, 2009
March 20, 2009 - Reflections of Tlaquepaque
As I walked to school this morning, I stopped and reflected on what was happening all around me. It was there every morning, but today, I wanted to be more aware and carry the memories back to New Hampshire.
Most of the people were walking with determination - teen aged students - mothers with children - men and women on their way to work. They dressed warmly in sweaters or jackets as the morning air must seem cool to them. I was happy in my short sleeve shirt and capris.
There were workers sweeping the streets. The unemployed and retired sat on park benches reading newspapers or sitting in contemplation. The shoe shine man was busy at work with a short line of customers. I noticed that women my age were not wearing tight clothing. They wore loose blouses and skirts. Had to pause and realize that I am not one of the 45 year olds with whom I have been comparing myself.
There are stands (prestos) set up to serve breakfast tacos and fresh fruit. They do a good business so it must be customary to eat as you walk to work.
I heard the happy chattering and laughing voices of shop employees setting up for their day's work. Music was blasting from various sources. I could also hear "Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz" as the gas man began his day's drive through the streets.
I waited for bright yellow taxis and bicycles to pass at the cross streets. I greeted our tour guide/policeman, Tony, as he passed on his bicycle. There was a man peddeling a bike which had a compartment in the front with a huge chunk of ice. Chances are that he was delivering it to an ice cream maker. There are some who shave the ice and pour different flavored concentrates on it. Not knowing where the ice has been or how it was made, I stay clear of that kind of street food.
I have been impressed by the city's attempt at recycling. Trash cans are labeled for compostibles, recyclable, and other trash. You see little trash in the streets or on sidewalks.
Lovers pass hand in hand. A child goes by in his dragon costume. There will be celebrations later today and tomorrow to celebrate the first day of Spring.
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Grand Finale...... to a wonderful two weeks in Tlaquepaque.
After packing for tomorrow's departure, Jo and I took one final walk around Tlaquepaque entering galleries that we had not noticed previously. Sun was setting and the sky at the end of Independencia was a dark orange. When we reached the Jardin there were rows of chairs set up facing a stage in front of the gazebo. Not many seats were still available.....so we decided to select our seats and then determine what the entertainment for the evening might be. We were pleased when our classmate, Ellie, arrived and found one of the last chairs and moved beside us.
This was a family event. Three, perhaps four generations sat or stood together. Entertainment began with clowns performing for the youngsters. For the next ninty minutes, we were treated to folk dancers, singers, and Mariachis. These were the best of the Mariachis. The back drop for the Jardin and the program were the brightly lit churches of Tlaquepaque. Brilliantn fireworks against the dark sky added to the celebration.
About half way through the program, an attractive red headed, woman came through the audience with bottles of Tequila and poured shots of the local beverage for all who cared to indulge (at no cost). She even came around with seconds. One was enough for me. Now...if it had been Margaritas instead of straight Tequila ?? who knows?? On stage there was a competition among volunteers to see who could howl like a Mariachi....after one, two, three shots of Tequila.
Program was over at around 9:15. Everyone seemed to find their favorite food vendor and ate their evening meal - cena. The big meal is eaten mid-day so a snack is perfect.....especially in this festive setting. For 16 pesos (a little over a dollar) we had a slice of delicious mushroom pizza and a coke at a parkside presto. There was a light breeze in the air as the three of us sat at an sidewalk table and spoke of our shared experiences over the past two weeks.
This is the life...... life in Tlaquepaque on a beautiful spring evening.
Most of the people were walking with determination - teen aged students - mothers with children - men and women on their way to work. They dressed warmly in sweaters or jackets as the morning air must seem cool to them. I was happy in my short sleeve shirt and capris.
There were workers sweeping the streets. The unemployed and retired sat on park benches reading newspapers or sitting in contemplation. The shoe shine man was busy at work with a short line of customers. I noticed that women my age were not wearing tight clothing. They wore loose blouses and skirts. Had to pause and realize that I am not one of the 45 year olds with whom I have been comparing myself.
There are stands (prestos) set up to serve breakfast tacos and fresh fruit. They do a good business so it must be customary to eat as you walk to work.
I heard the happy chattering and laughing voices of shop employees setting up for their day's work. Music was blasting from various sources. I could also hear "Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz" as the gas man began his day's drive through the streets.
I waited for bright yellow taxis and bicycles to pass at the cross streets. I greeted our tour guide/policeman, Tony, as he passed on his bicycle. There was a man peddeling a bike which had a compartment in the front with a huge chunk of ice. Chances are that he was delivering it to an ice cream maker. There are some who shave the ice and pour different flavored concentrates on it. Not knowing where the ice has been or how it was made, I stay clear of that kind of street food.
I have been impressed by the city's attempt at recycling. Trash cans are labeled for compostibles, recyclable, and other trash. You see little trash in the streets or on sidewalks.
Lovers pass hand in hand. A child goes by in his dragon costume. There will be celebrations later today and tomorrow to celebrate the first day of Spring.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Grand Finale...... to a wonderful two weeks in Tlaquepaque.
After packing for tomorrow's departure, Jo and I took one final walk around Tlaquepaque entering galleries that we had not noticed previously. Sun was setting and the sky at the end of Independencia was a dark orange. When we reached the Jardin there were rows of chairs set up facing a stage in front of the gazebo. Not many seats were still available.....so we decided to select our seats and then determine what the entertainment for the evening might be. We were pleased when our classmate, Ellie, arrived and found one of the last chairs and moved beside us.
This was a family event. Three, perhaps four generations sat or stood together. Entertainment began with clowns performing for the youngsters. For the next ninty minutes, we were treated to folk dancers, singers, and Mariachis. These were the best of the Mariachis. The back drop for the Jardin and the program were the brightly lit churches of Tlaquepaque. Brilliantn fireworks against the dark sky added to the celebration.
About half way through the program, an attractive red headed, woman came through the audience with bottles of Tequila and poured shots of the local beverage for all who cared to indulge (at no cost). She even came around with seconds. One was enough for me. Now...if it had been Margaritas instead of straight Tequila ?? who knows?? On stage there was a competition among volunteers to see who could howl like a Mariachi....after one, two, three shots of Tequila.
Program was over at around 9:15. Everyone seemed to find their favorite food vendor and ate their evening meal - cena. The big meal is eaten mid-day so a snack is perfect.....especially in this festive setting. For 16 pesos (a little over a dollar) we had a slice of delicious mushroom pizza and a coke at a parkside presto. There was a light breeze in the air as the three of us sat at an sidewalk table and spoke of our shared experiences over the past two weeks.
This is the life...... life in Tlaquepaque on a beautiful spring evening.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
March 19, 2009
Up before 5 am, as I know that the days in Tlaquepaque are winding down. Quiet at that hour. Buses do not run often, dogs are still asleep, no music in the air, just a peaceful silence. My jardin is cool and I need to wear a shirt over my pajamas. The sky overhead is still black with a sprinkling of stars. The air in Tlaquepaque is clear and clean. I go back inside to read until six when the church bells ring in the hour and the chirping of birds welcomes in the new day.
During our first class, Monica suggested that we go for a walk through the Jardin and along Independencia. There were many white tents and a stage set up in the Jardin. Posters informed us that there was an ecological event about protecting the water in Tlaquepaque.
As we walked along Independencia we heard and saw a parade of youngsters...starting with the first graders through eighth marching and chanting "Cuido Agua"..... (take care of water). The smallest of the children were in the costumes of critters of nature.......bees, animals, butterflies, etc. I stood at the side and took photos. One little tot ran over to me and gave me a picture that he had drawn of a boy holding two pots of water. Now, that is a picture that I will save as a momento of this trip. Their march ended at the Jardin where the children took part in a puppet show educating them about the conservation and protection of water.
Ellie had suggested that we stop to see Antigua Galleria. This is a mansion built in 1850 by a rich Guadalajara family as their weekend home. The front rooms today act as a show room for fine furniture and accessories. We were able to walk through these rooms to the interior courtyard and jardin. The gardens are large and the property and house spread out to the next block. We stood and admired the beauty of the garden and residence.
Monica led us through the public market stopping to explain how different fruits and vegetables were prepared.
Straight home at 2:00. Lunch and computer.
I actually fell asleep after lunch while trying to read. It was either that I was trying out a Mexican siesta.....or the fact that I was up before 5 am.
Mis Amigas - Kate, Karin, Connie, Barbara and Malia arrived around 7 pm. With Jo, we sat on the patio overlooking my garden for a while before walking to el Nahual for dinner. They were full of news of the places that they visited during the past week. They covered over 700 miles in their rented car visiting cities and villages and the sea side. Their experiences were all positive. They never paid more than =$12 per night per person for lodging. They raved about some of the hostels. I would love to travel with these gals as they seek budget accommodations and places to eat. They follow one of my favorite phrases of wisdom: 'The Difference between Adventure and Adversity is Attitude."
They fly back to the states tomorrow. Perhaps we will get together in August, at Barbara's house.
During our first class, Monica suggested that we go for a walk through the Jardin and along Independencia. There were many white tents and a stage set up in the Jardin. Posters informed us that there was an ecological event about protecting the water in Tlaquepaque.
As we walked along Independencia we heard and saw a parade of youngsters...starting with the first graders through eighth marching and chanting "Cuido Agua"..... (take care of water). The smallest of the children were in the costumes of critters of nature.......bees, animals, butterflies, etc. I stood at the side and took photos. One little tot ran over to me and gave me a picture that he had drawn of a boy holding two pots of water. Now, that is a picture that I will save as a momento of this trip. Their march ended at the Jardin where the children took part in a puppet show educating them about the conservation and protection of water.
Ellie had suggested that we stop to see Antigua Galleria. This is a mansion built in 1850 by a rich Guadalajara family as their weekend home. The front rooms today act as a show room for fine furniture and accessories. We were able to walk through these rooms to the interior courtyard and jardin. The gardens are large and the property and house spread out to the next block. We stood and admired the beauty of the garden and residence.
Monica led us through the public market stopping to explain how different fruits and vegetables were prepared.
Straight home at 2:00. Lunch and computer.
I actually fell asleep after lunch while trying to read. It was either that I was trying out a Mexican siesta.....or the fact that I was up before 5 am.
Mis Amigas - Kate, Karin, Connie, Barbara and Malia arrived around 7 pm. With Jo, we sat on the patio overlooking my garden for a while before walking to el Nahual for dinner. They were full of news of the places that they visited during the past week. They covered over 700 miles in their rented car visiting cities and villages and the sea side. Their experiences were all positive. They never paid more than =$12 per night per person for lodging. They raved about some of the hostels. I would love to travel with these gals as they seek budget accommodations and places to eat. They follow one of my favorite phrases of wisdom: 'The Difference between Adventure and Adversity is Attitude."
They fly back to the states tomorrow. Perhaps we will get together in August, at Barbara's house.
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
March 18, 2009 Veggie Deprivation
The past few days, I have had great meals.....but, very few vegetables. No excuse for this since I have a full kitchen. So, it was off to the mercado first thing this morning. For = $1.50 I bought 4 small avacados, two green squash, one tomato, 1 small broccoli, four carrots, and three bananas. All set. Hurried home from school to prepare my lunch of broccoli and squash. Some people need a drink as their fix .... I need my veggies. Most of the time when I travel, it is hard to find restaurants that serve enough vegetables to please me.
School went well. Monica and Alejandra did a fine job of keeping my attention. I wish that I could be in classes for another week. Finally, I think I can remember the past tense.
Sylvie delivered my fired ceramics. Surprise! They look pretty good for a first attempt. I told Walter that I would prepare a description of the Ceramics Workshop for future students so that they would be better prepared than I was.
Borrowed a book of Mexican recipes. It seems to be Vegetarian Cookbook. I spent this afternoon creating another blog with my favorites of these recipes. You can access them at http://kathysmexicanrecipes.blogspot.com/ If you like vegetarian cooking, there are some mouth watering recipes there. I plan to cook some of these for my weekend trips at Pembrook. Will also try them out with my book club friends.
Dinner at Canela, an upscale restaurant in a beautifully decorated interior courtyard. I enjoyed the Mole Poblano (chicken breast, mole, and rice). This mole was the best that I have tasted....sweet and I could taste the chocolate. Sun set and darkness ascended while we were dining. The patio was magically illuminated by lanterns and candles. Would have been even more perfect if Jo had been a Joe..... Oh well, cannot have everything.
Walking back, I was more aware than ever of the loud music everywhere. Street food was being prepared and served on every corner.....and in between. Each night, I pass someone making fried dough. It looks so light and fuffy and must taste good with the addition of jelly and other topping which is offered. I am always too full to stop for this treat. Only two more nights and two more opportunities. I am going to miss these evening walks about town.
School went well. Monica and Alejandra did a fine job of keeping my attention. I wish that I could be in classes for another week. Finally, I think I can remember the past tense.
Sylvie delivered my fired ceramics. Surprise! They look pretty good for a first attempt. I told Walter that I would prepare a description of the Ceramics Workshop for future students so that they would be better prepared than I was.
Borrowed a book of Mexican recipes. It seems to be Vegetarian Cookbook. I spent this afternoon creating another blog with my favorites of these recipes. You can access them at http://kathysmexicanrecipes.blogspot.com/ If you like vegetarian cooking, there are some mouth watering recipes there. I plan to cook some of these for my weekend trips at Pembrook. Will also try them out with my book club friends.
Dinner at Canela, an upscale restaurant in a beautifully decorated interior courtyard. I enjoyed the Mole Poblano (chicken breast, mole, and rice). This mole was the best that I have tasted....sweet and I could taste the chocolate. Sun set and darkness ascended while we were dining. The patio was magically illuminated by lanterns and candles. Would have been even more perfect if Jo had been a Joe..... Oh well, cannot have everything.
Walking back, I was more aware than ever of the loud music everywhere. Street food was being prepared and served on every corner.....and in between. Each night, I pass someone making fried dough. It looks so light and fuffy and must taste good with the addition of jelly and other topping which is offered. I am always too full to stop for this treat. Only two more nights and two more opportunities. I am going to miss these evening walks about town.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
March 17, 2009 - Gracias a Dios - Estoy en Tlaquepaque
On Sunday, I tried to take a Tapatio Bus to Guadalajara. Because of road closures (due to fiesta in Guadalajara) the story kept changing about what time the bus would depart. I gave up and found other things to do.
Today, I was down to my last four possible days to tour Guadalajara. Decided to skip my second class and leave school at 11:00am. Hurried to the bus stop where the Tapatio Bus stops. An information person told me that "Today the bus will not stop there!" I had to hurry several blocks to another possible bus stop. Ah, bus was there ....but, no driver. Met up with some Americans who said that the bus was scheduled to leave at that moment. Fifteen minutes later, we were on our way taking in the views from the open second level of the bus. I was prepared with a hat and sunscreen. Not too bad when we were moving. The Tapatio bus is an "On and Off" bus. You wear a paper bracelet which entitles you to get on and off until 8:30pm. There are two buses and routes; one for Tlaquepaque and one for Guadalajara. You can go from one to the other or take time to sightsee in between.
I got off at the exchange location which was the historic center of Guadalajara. Had not a clue where I was. Each map was a little different. Within ten minutes I was oriented and fortunately had been walking towards my destination - Hospicio Institue Cabanas, a world heritage site. This museum once was a House of Charity and Mercy run by nuns, is now known for its collection of murals and other art work by Jose Clemente Orozco.
I have always enjoyed the work of Mexican muralists....such as Diego Rivera.....but, the work of Orozco does not appeal to me at all. In my opinion his pallet was limited and his figures were not at all warm and friendly.
On the positive side.....the museum was free today and they had a very pleasant cafe. I sat out in the patio in the shade and slowly ate while reviewing Guadalajara maps and touring suggestions. I was their only customer....after all who else but an American would eat as early as 1:00 pm.
Teatro Degoiado seemed to be closed to tourists. The exterior was being renovated. Took a walk through the Mercado San Juan de Dios. For me, it was just another market.
Everywhere there seemed to be a lot of traffic and a lot of people. Nothing negative....just a fact. It was hot in the sun...and not much cooler in the shade. Did not have the inclination to walk to other sites. Hopped on the Guadalajara Tapatio bus and listened via earphones to the narrated tour.
Much to my surprise and disappointment, I did not think that Guadalajara was a beautiful city. The heat of the day may have played a part in this. Also, all the streets are torn up to bury power lines. Would I return to Guadalajara or recommend the city to others?? No, not at all. I felt very safe there. People were pleasant. I just did not like all of the traffic, noise, and congestion. Mind you, I travel to cities all over the world and enjoy them. So it is not that I do not like cities.
So, I am very happy to be back "home" in Tlaquepaque. All feels good here and I do not mind the heat!
What cities of Mexico would I recommend? I have enjoyed some small cities such as Oaxaca, San Cristibol de las Casas, Puebla, Guanajuato. My friends highly recommend Merida in the Yucatan. I was there briefly and did not have much time to get to know the city. I like Mexico City. The Museum of Anthropology is one of the finest museums in the world. I have visited art musems, the Theater of Fine Arts, plaza of the Mariachis, many parks..... My sister and I had a wonderful visit there one December when the city was preparing for Christmas. The holiday decorations and Christmas Market provided a wonderful back drop. We did not hesitate to take the Metro to outlying areas of the city. The Metros were interesting as they took the illiterate into consideration. Metro stations were marked with a name and symbol. If you could not read, you knew that the Eagle Station comes after the Pyramid Station and so on....
Today, I was down to my last four possible days to tour Guadalajara. Decided to skip my second class and leave school at 11:00am. Hurried to the bus stop where the Tapatio Bus stops. An information person told me that "Today the bus will not stop there!" I had to hurry several blocks to another possible bus stop. Ah, bus was there ....but, no driver. Met up with some Americans who said that the bus was scheduled to leave at that moment. Fifteen minutes later, we were on our way taking in the views from the open second level of the bus. I was prepared with a hat and sunscreen. Not too bad when we were moving. The Tapatio bus is an "On and Off" bus. You wear a paper bracelet which entitles you to get on and off until 8:30pm. There are two buses and routes; one for Tlaquepaque and one for Guadalajara. You can go from one to the other or take time to sightsee in between.
I got off at the exchange location which was the historic center of Guadalajara. Had not a clue where I was. Each map was a little different. Within ten minutes I was oriented and fortunately had been walking towards my destination - Hospicio Institue Cabanas, a world heritage site. This museum once was a House of Charity and Mercy run by nuns, is now known for its collection of murals and other art work by Jose Clemente Orozco.
I have always enjoyed the work of Mexican muralists....such as Diego Rivera.....but, the work of Orozco does not appeal to me at all. In my opinion his pallet was limited and his figures were not at all warm and friendly.
On the positive side.....the museum was free today and they had a very pleasant cafe. I sat out in the patio in the shade and slowly ate while reviewing Guadalajara maps and touring suggestions. I was their only customer....after all who else but an American would eat as early as 1:00 pm.
Teatro Degoiado seemed to be closed to tourists. The exterior was being renovated. Took a walk through the Mercado San Juan de Dios. For me, it was just another market.
Everywhere there seemed to be a lot of traffic and a lot of people. Nothing negative....just a fact. It was hot in the sun...and not much cooler in the shade. Did not have the inclination to walk to other sites. Hopped on the Guadalajara Tapatio bus and listened via earphones to the narrated tour.
Much to my surprise and disappointment, I did not think that Guadalajara was a beautiful city. The heat of the day may have played a part in this. Also, all the streets are torn up to bury power lines. Would I return to Guadalajara or recommend the city to others?? No, not at all. I felt very safe there. People were pleasant. I just did not like all of the traffic, noise, and congestion. Mind you, I travel to cities all over the world and enjoy them. So it is not that I do not like cities.
So, I am very happy to be back "home" in Tlaquepaque. All feels good here and I do not mind the heat!
What cities of Mexico would I recommend? I have enjoyed some small cities such as Oaxaca, San Cristibol de las Casas, Puebla, Guanajuato. My friends highly recommend Merida in the Yucatan. I was there briefly and did not have much time to get to know the city. I like Mexico City. The Museum of Anthropology is one of the finest museums in the world. I have visited art musems, the Theater of Fine Arts, plaza of the Mariachis, many parks..... My sister and I had a wonderful visit there one December when the city was preparing for Christmas. The holiday decorations and Christmas Market provided a wonderful back drop. We did not hesitate to take the Metro to outlying areas of the city. The Metros were interesting as they took the illiterate into consideration. Metro stations were marked with a name and symbol. If you could not read, you knew that the Eagle Station comes after the Pyramid Station and so on....
Sunday, March 15, 2009
March 16, 2009 - Dia de Benito Juarez
Today is a holiday in Mexico, the birthday of Benito Juarez.....well almost....his birthday is March 21. The Mexicans have recently started following the custom of the USA of celebrating holidays on a Monday to provide a long weekend.
When I read about Benito Juarez, I think of President Obama. In 1858, Juarez was the first indigenous man to be elected to the presidency of Mexico. He was Zapotec Amerindian. Through hard work and many struggles, he graduated from the university, became a lawyer and defended the indigenous communities. He held local and state offices before working up to the presidency. Once in office, he worked with the liberals to make many reforms and laws. One of the most important was the separation of church and state. Juarez and his staff were responsible for forcing the church to give up riches and properties to the state. Juarez served five terms as president. His actions served as an example for all of Latin America.
Do some googling of "Benito Juarez" and see if you do not recognize similarities betweeen Juarez and Obama.
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The Mexican students studying at Guadalajara Learning Center were off celebrating their holiday. For us students of Spanish it was classes as usual. This week, I am once again in a class with Ellie. Our instructors are Monica and _____________ forgive my senior moment.... ; two hours of study with each. Cannot say that I absorb the information very well as it is all oral. I am learning to tune my ears to espanol and that is really why I am attending the school.
Jo and I ate our mid-day meal at a restaurant on Independencia....one with a sidewalk cafe. What I ate was not as important as the location. Could not have had a better viewing point for people watching. My number one observation was that the Mexican women and girls sure do wear tight clothing. I hide my belly with loose blouses. The local women let it all hang out...and stretch their low cut tops over their bulges. Tight hip hugging pants are most popular with the young women of all sizes and shapes. Saw many women with skin tight pants and very high pencil heel shoes. Oh, the price of beauty!
My lunch was good..... a chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms and cream cheese in a flavorful spinach pesto. (I know....that is why I have the bulges!) Jo did a little shopping in the craft stores and then I followed her to a clothing store where my resistance wore thin and I purchased a loose fitting pumpkin orange cotton shirt. I am not ready to adapt to Mexican style of dress. Or perhaps, I am. Maybe this is how the Abuelas (grandmothers) dress. I sometimes forget my age.
It is 6:00 pm, time to open the doors and windows to bring in the cool evening air. I continue to enjoy my apartment. It is set at street level, in the back of the building so that I do not hear as much street noise (cars, buses, etc.) as the front units. The floors in the two bedrooms, bath, dining room, living room, kitchen and patio are all of a glossy tile. I do not know how they keep up the shine. It always looks clean and beautiful. I love the airiness of the kitchen, patio, and my bedroom. I am happy to spend hours ....days....weeks in this space. Need to add that my walk-in shower measures 5' x 5'. Those who know me know that I often stay in shared space of a hostel without a qualm. But, for the moment, I am living the life of luxury. Everything is relative.
Deb Redfield asked why I would not want to live in Ajijic. Ajijic offers a pleasant place to live, but is too far (one hour) from Guadalajara. Walking in Ajijic would be limited. There are communities ...but, then you have wide open spaces. At this time of year, they are dry and brown. Iwould miss the green of home.
I think that I could live in Tlaquepaque during the winter and spring months. This area of Guadalajara is spread out. Walking is limitless. I would like being near Guadalajara for its cultural aspects.
What would I miss the most?? My friends. Friends are my greatest treasure and hard to duplicate. I would miss having a selection of books in English. This could be easily remedied by owning a "Kindle" book marketed by Amazon. Purchased books can easily be delivered electronically.
The solution to missing friends would be for several of us to spend a month together in Tlaquepaque. It is an inexpensive was to spend a vacation.
When I read about Benito Juarez, I think of President Obama. In 1858, Juarez was the first indigenous man to be elected to the presidency of Mexico. He was Zapotec Amerindian. Through hard work and many struggles, he graduated from the university, became a lawyer and defended the indigenous communities. He held local and state offices before working up to the presidency. Once in office, he worked with the liberals to make many reforms and laws. One of the most important was the separation of church and state. Juarez and his staff were responsible for forcing the church to give up riches and properties to the state. Juarez served five terms as president. His actions served as an example for all of Latin America.
Do some googling of "Benito Juarez" and see if you do not recognize similarities betweeen Juarez and Obama.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Mexican students studying at Guadalajara Learning Center were off celebrating their holiday. For us students of Spanish it was classes as usual. This week, I am once again in a class with Ellie. Our instructors are Monica and _____________ forgive my senior moment.... ; two hours of study with each. Cannot say that I absorb the information very well as it is all oral. I am learning to tune my ears to espanol and that is really why I am attending the school.
Jo and I ate our mid-day meal at a restaurant on Independencia....one with a sidewalk cafe. What I ate was not as important as the location. Could not have had a better viewing point for people watching. My number one observation was that the Mexican women and girls sure do wear tight clothing. I hide my belly with loose blouses. The local women let it all hang out...and stretch their low cut tops over their bulges. Tight hip hugging pants are most popular with the young women of all sizes and shapes. Saw many women with skin tight pants and very high pencil heel shoes. Oh, the price of beauty!
My lunch was good..... a chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms and cream cheese in a flavorful spinach pesto. (I know....that is why I have the bulges!) Jo did a little shopping in the craft stores and then I followed her to a clothing store where my resistance wore thin and I purchased a loose fitting pumpkin orange cotton shirt. I am not ready to adapt to Mexican style of dress. Or perhaps, I am. Maybe this is how the Abuelas (grandmothers) dress. I sometimes forget my age.
It is 6:00 pm, time to open the doors and windows to bring in the cool evening air. I continue to enjoy my apartment. It is set at street level, in the back of the building so that I do not hear as much street noise (cars, buses, etc.) as the front units. The floors in the two bedrooms, bath, dining room, living room, kitchen and patio are all of a glossy tile. I do not know how they keep up the shine. It always looks clean and beautiful. I love the airiness of the kitchen, patio, and my bedroom. I am happy to spend hours ....days....weeks in this space. Need to add that my walk-in shower measures 5' x 5'. Those who know me know that I often stay in shared space of a hostel without a qualm. But, for the moment, I am living the life of luxury. Everything is relative.
Deb Redfield asked why I would not want to live in Ajijic. Ajijic offers a pleasant place to live, but is too far (one hour) from Guadalajara. Walking in Ajijic would be limited. There are communities ...but, then you have wide open spaces. At this time of year, they are dry and brown. Iwould miss the green of home.
I think that I could live in Tlaquepaque during the winter and spring months. This area of Guadalajara is spread out. Walking is limitless. I would like being near Guadalajara for its cultural aspects.
What would I miss the most?? My friends. Friends are my greatest treasure and hard to duplicate. I would miss having a selection of books in English. This could be easily remedied by owning a "Kindle" book marketed by Amazon. Purchased books can easily be delivered electronically.
The solution to missing friends would be for several of us to spend a month together in Tlaquepaque. It is an inexpensive was to spend a vacation.
March 15, 2009 - Flexible Agenda
Had all sorts of plans for today, Sunday. Originally, I was going to get up early and take a bus to Guadalajara to see 9:30 performance of Ballet Folklorico. Sleeping late or staying in bed with "East of Eden" seemed like a better option.
Jo and I planned to have a leisurely breakfast at a restaurant and walk about town before catching the 12:30 Tapatio Tour Bus to Guadalajara. After breakfast of huevos divorciado (two eggs side by side, one with salsa roja and ther other with salsa verde.) , went to Pila Seca (off Independencia) to confirm the tour bus info. Ran into our walking tour guide "Tony". He told us that because there were big fiestas in Guadalajara today, the roads would be closed and there would be no bus until 2:30 pm. The day would be more than half over by that time. I can leave earlier than this on a school day. Needed to switch gears.....
Jo and I did not have an alternate plan but, took this opportunity to browse in the Galleries along Indepenedencia. The most fascinating was that of Sergio Bustamante. http://www.sergiobustamante.com.mx/ His creative works ranged from jewelry to shoes to life sized sculptures. They were whimsical. He even had a dining room set where some of the table and chair legs were carved as shoes and boots. Some of his larger sculptures were in the outdoor gardens and pools.
I purchased small items such as, painted, wooden boxes, ceramic earrings, small beaded pots, tin box and mirrors. The joy was in the viewing all handicrafts and arts. I dont know of any other small city that has so many tasteful, quality crafts in one locale. In addition to the shops, there were street artists and craftspeople. Time passed and it was time for almuerzo (lunch). Thought it best to find a restaurant off the pedestrian way. It might be less expensive. Did not need to go far and found Casa Tequila. No, we did not go to a tequila bar....but, to a wonderful interior patio and cafe. Because there was no roof, we were able to look up and see the Basilica ...white against a cobalt blue sky. Walls of the cafe were painted the color of orange/red clay. The contrast with the sky was most appealing. I read camarones on the menu and decided to take a chance with the Tortitas de Camaron con Nopales. I know that carmarones are shrimp and Nopales are the chopped up leaves of the prickly pear cactus. This meal was served with rice. The camarones turned out to be a thin "shrimp burgers" in a salsa roja with the cut up nopales. It was a little bit picante, but the rice and tortillas helped. Another local meal to check off the list. It was okay...but, not to be repeated. We enjoyed our beautiful, young waitress. She was very friendly and accommodating. She even brought out her pet white rabbit for us to see.
While out walking, decided to check out Librerias Gonvill, a bookstore which is located next to Walmart. I was able to find ten reasonably priced children's book to add to my sister Suzanne's Library for the children of Carbonal de Grecia, Costa Rica.
Suzanne and Ron have lived in Costa Rica for over two years. They are living with the local Ticos....not in an American compound. Last March, Suzanne conceived of the idea of a library for the children who live in her neighborhood when she learned that they did not have access to books. This library in their home is open to the migrant Nicaraguan children as well as the local Ticos (I wonder if children are called Tocitos or Toquitos?). Suzanne remembered how important the public library was for her as a child. Over the past year, she has purchased or has had donated over 300 children's books written in Spanish. A couple of months ago, when they learned that their good friend and neighbor had been layed off from his job, Suzanne and Ron decided that this was as good a time as any to provide work for their friend......and to build a larger library as an addition on their home. This new library has an outside entrance so local volunteers can keep the library open when Suzanne and Ron are not at home. "Biblioteca de Susanna Para Ninos" will have its Grand Opening Celebration on April 11, 2009.
Suzanne keeps an eye on EBay and when she finds a good price on books makes a purchase and has the books sent to friends in the US who plan to make a trip to Costa Rica. I try to keep an eye out for books...but, living in northern New Hampshire, I rarely if ever, see a book written in Spanish.
If anyone has access to children's books in Spanish and would like to donate them.... we would be most grateful. My next trip to CosaRica will be in December. I plan to carry as many books as will fit in two pieces of luggage and not go over the fifty pound per bag limit.
Guess that I got sidetracked....but, for a good cause.
Jo and I planned to have a leisurely breakfast at a restaurant and walk about town before catching the 12:30 Tapatio Tour Bus to Guadalajara. After breakfast of huevos divorciado (two eggs side by side, one with salsa roja and ther other with salsa verde.) , went to Pila Seca (off Independencia) to confirm the tour bus info. Ran into our walking tour guide "Tony". He told us that because there were big fiestas in Guadalajara today, the roads would be closed and there would be no bus until 2:30 pm. The day would be more than half over by that time. I can leave earlier than this on a school day. Needed to switch gears.....
Jo and I did not have an alternate plan but, took this opportunity to browse in the Galleries along Indepenedencia. The most fascinating was that of Sergio Bustamante. http://www.sergiobustamante.com.mx/ His creative works ranged from jewelry to shoes to life sized sculptures. They were whimsical. He even had a dining room set where some of the table and chair legs were carved as shoes and boots. Some of his larger sculptures were in the outdoor gardens and pools.
I purchased small items such as, painted, wooden boxes, ceramic earrings, small beaded pots, tin box and mirrors. The joy was in the viewing all handicrafts and arts. I dont know of any other small city that has so many tasteful, quality crafts in one locale. In addition to the shops, there were street artists and craftspeople. Time passed and it was time for almuerzo (lunch). Thought it best to find a restaurant off the pedestrian way. It might be less expensive. Did not need to go far and found Casa Tequila. No, we did not go to a tequila bar....but, to a wonderful interior patio and cafe. Because there was no roof, we were able to look up and see the Basilica ...white against a cobalt blue sky. Walls of the cafe were painted the color of orange/red clay. The contrast with the sky was most appealing. I read camarones on the menu and decided to take a chance with the Tortitas de Camaron con Nopales. I know that carmarones are shrimp and Nopales are the chopped up leaves of the prickly pear cactus. This meal was served with rice. The camarones turned out to be a thin "shrimp burgers" in a salsa roja with the cut up nopales. It was a little bit picante, but the rice and tortillas helped. Another local meal to check off the list. It was okay...but, not to be repeated. We enjoyed our beautiful, young waitress. She was very friendly and accommodating. She even brought out her pet white rabbit for us to see.
While out walking, decided to check out Librerias Gonvill, a bookstore which is located next to Walmart. I was able to find ten reasonably priced children's book to add to my sister Suzanne's Library for the children of Carbonal de Grecia, Costa Rica.
Suzanne and Ron have lived in Costa Rica for over two years. They are living with the local Ticos....not in an American compound. Last March, Suzanne conceived of the idea of a library for the children who live in her neighborhood when she learned that they did not have access to books. This library in their home is open to the migrant Nicaraguan children as well as the local Ticos (I wonder if children are called Tocitos or Toquitos?). Suzanne remembered how important the public library was for her as a child. Over the past year, she has purchased or has had donated over 300 children's books written in Spanish. A couple of months ago, when they learned that their good friend and neighbor had been layed off from his job, Suzanne and Ron decided that this was as good a time as any to provide work for their friend......and to build a larger library as an addition on their home. This new library has an outside entrance so local volunteers can keep the library open when Suzanne and Ron are not at home. "Biblioteca de Susanna Para Ninos" will have its Grand Opening Celebration on April 11, 2009.
Suzanne keeps an eye on EBay and when she finds a good price on books makes a purchase and has the books sent to friends in the US who plan to make a trip to Costa Rica. I try to keep an eye out for books...but, living in northern New Hampshire, I rarely if ever, see a book written in Spanish.
If anyone has access to children's books in Spanish and would like to donate them.... we would be most grateful. My next trip to CosaRica will be in December. I plan to carry as many books as will fit in two pieces of luggage and not go over the fifty pound per bag limit.
Guess that I got sidetracked....but, for a good cause.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
March 14, 2009 - Lake Chapala and Ajijic
Saturday - No school.
Jill led a field trip to Lake Chapala and Ajijic. Jo, Ellie, Kent, and I joined Jill and our driver, Miguel. It was a forty five minute drive to Mexico's largest lake. They have a lovely Malecon (waterfront walk way). We boarded our own boat with a canopy to shade us from the strong rays of the sun. It was cooler out on the water as we cruised along the shoreline. I was surprised to observe a flock of white pelicans and egrets roosting off shore. Jacaranda trees are in full bloom during March. Their purple blossoms on wide spreading branches gave color to the landscape.
After many years of low water, Lake Chapala is very full. Jill credited this to a large amount of rain and also ecological efforts that are being practiced to clean up the lake. The lake certainly is an attraction for the tourists Many Canadians and people from the United States have retired to Chapala and Ajijic. I took a twenty minute walk around Chapala stopping at the market and church. While the waterfront is nice....there is nothing else that would attract me to this town.
Next stop was Ajijic. This is the town where my parents were to settle if they had moved to Mexico in 1959. I could live there.....but, do not think that I would choose to do so. It is a lively town with plazas, pedestrian walkways, many restaurants, shops and community art center. Buildings were painted in the bright "Mexican" colors, that I love. There was time to walk down to the waterfront, visit the church and art center. Sat in the plaza and enjoyed a Nuez Helado.... ice cream cone. After almost a week of no sweets, I have had ice cream for two days in a row. The Arts Center had an exhibit of paintings that I appreciated because of their strong primary colors. I took a prize winning photo at the church entrance - of Jill and Ellie standing in the doorway with a perfect reflection on the highly glossed floor.
Miguel drove us further along the lake to San Juan Cosala with its upscale hotel and spa - Monte Coxala - Spa de Altura. http://www.montecoxala.com/ It is a place to enjoy the thermal baths, spa treatments, yoga and tennis. The resort is beautifully landscaped with recreated Mayan figures constructed to look like ruins. We sat on the upper level of the open air, thatched roof restaurant and had a drink while looking out over Lake Chapala.
This was a great day trip (6 1/2 hours total) from Tlaquepaque. So glad that we went with Jill and Miguel. Miguel is an excellent driver and Jill was informative and it was nice to spend the day with her.
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Other thoughts and observations from my Cinco de Mayo apartment -
No more rooster crowing. Did he end up in a soup pot???
Heard a train last night and early this morning. Jill said that it was for freight, not passenger service.
Asked Jill about the "Rainy Season". From May through August, it rains mainly at night...and for a couple of hours during the day. You have to be wise when walking through the city as streets become flooded. Wear rubber boots and carry TWO umbrellas. One umbrella is held over your head and the second is placed at an angle by your legs. This is your defense against cars that splash when passing you.
Church bells ring in every hour. Sometimes there is also a carillon.
Every day, trucks drive up and down the streets with their loud speaker system playing a recorded melody "Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz" If you need a new tank of propane, you hear the delivery truck coming from blocks away and have time to run out to stop the driver. And if you miss him.....dont worry...he will be around again and again and again......Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz. I sing this tune in my sleep.
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Dinner at a mariscos (seafood) restaurant block from Parian. Margarita, Shrimp with Butter and Garlic, rice, fresh vegetables, and salad for the equivalent of $10 US. Jo and I walked after dinner before returning to our apartments.
Jill led a field trip to Lake Chapala and Ajijic. Jo, Ellie, Kent, and I joined Jill and our driver, Miguel. It was a forty five minute drive to Mexico's largest lake. They have a lovely Malecon (waterfront walk way). We boarded our own boat with a canopy to shade us from the strong rays of the sun. It was cooler out on the water as we cruised along the shoreline. I was surprised to observe a flock of white pelicans and egrets roosting off shore. Jacaranda trees are in full bloom during March. Their purple blossoms on wide spreading branches gave color to the landscape.
After many years of low water, Lake Chapala is very full. Jill credited this to a large amount of rain and also ecological efforts that are being practiced to clean up the lake. The lake certainly is an attraction for the tourists Many Canadians and people from the United States have retired to Chapala and Ajijic. I took a twenty minute walk around Chapala stopping at the market and church. While the waterfront is nice....there is nothing else that would attract me to this town.
Next stop was Ajijic. This is the town where my parents were to settle if they had moved to Mexico in 1959. I could live there.....but, do not think that I would choose to do so. It is a lively town with plazas, pedestrian walkways, many restaurants, shops and community art center. Buildings were painted in the bright "Mexican" colors, that I love. There was time to walk down to the waterfront, visit the church and art center. Sat in the plaza and enjoyed a Nuez Helado.... ice cream cone. After almost a week of no sweets, I have had ice cream for two days in a row. The Arts Center had an exhibit of paintings that I appreciated because of their strong primary colors. I took a prize winning photo at the church entrance - of Jill and Ellie standing in the doorway with a perfect reflection on the highly glossed floor.
Miguel drove us further along the lake to San Juan Cosala with its upscale hotel and spa - Monte Coxala - Spa de Altura. http://www.montecoxala.com/ It is a place to enjoy the thermal baths, spa treatments, yoga and tennis. The resort is beautifully landscaped with recreated Mayan figures constructed to look like ruins. We sat on the upper level of the open air, thatched roof restaurant and had a drink while looking out over Lake Chapala.
This was a great day trip (6 1/2 hours total) from Tlaquepaque. So glad that we went with Jill and Miguel. Miguel is an excellent driver and Jill was informative and it was nice to spend the day with her.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other thoughts and observations from my Cinco de Mayo apartment -
No more rooster crowing. Did he end up in a soup pot???
Heard a train last night and early this morning. Jill said that it was for freight, not passenger service.
Asked Jill about the "Rainy Season". From May through August, it rains mainly at night...and for a couple of hours during the day. You have to be wise when walking through the city as streets become flooded. Wear rubber boots and carry TWO umbrellas. One umbrella is held over your head and the second is placed at an angle by your legs. This is your defense against cars that splash when passing you.
Church bells ring in every hour. Sometimes there is also a carillon.
Every day, trucks drive up and down the streets with their loud speaker system playing a recorded melody "Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz" If you need a new tank of propane, you hear the delivery truck coming from blocks away and have time to run out to stop the driver. And if you miss him.....dont worry...he will be around again and again and again......Presta, Presta, Presta Gaz. I sing this tune in my sleep.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dinner at a mariscos (seafood) restaurant block from Parian. Margarita, Shrimp with Butter and Garlic, rice, fresh vegetables, and salad for the equivalent of $10 US. Jo and I walked after dinner before returning to our apartments.
Friday, March 13, 2009
March 13, 2009 - Friday the 13th - I Quit
Class at Guadalajara Language Center was pleasant as always. The two hours passed quickly. All was well.
Ceramics Workshop. I know that I need to plan ahead and create my own designs. Later today, I will find a bookstore and purchase a book with illustrations of ceramic designs. I will work hard drawing the designs and be ready by Monday to transfer my designs to ceramic pieces. I feel good about this. Finished painting a cup and saucer and gave myself credit that they look pretty good. Ah, success.
Then, I learn that there will be NO Ceramic Workshop on Monday, as that is a holiday - the birthday of Benito Juarez. This, I understand. Still, I was grumbling to myself.....that I paid for ten days and was getting shorted by one day less. I kept silent about this. And then, I am told that everything must be painted by Tuesday afternoon as they plan to fire the kiln that night. I can do no more painting after Tuesday. That gives me one day, Tuesday, to do everything. So what am I to do on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday??? Sylvie said to come in on Saturday and Sunday to paint...but, I would be alone in the factory. I have made other plans so that is not an option.
At that point, I lost it and said that I quit!! Went back to the school and told Walter that I would take two extra hours of Spanish each day, in place of the workshop.
Where does the fault lie??? Agenda of workshop should have been explained more clearly. It should not be scheduled from Monday through Friday if there will be nothing to do for three of the days during the final week. They should not charge for three days of nothing.....and also charge for a holiday when they are closed They should have examples of designs to copy. They should not allow students to sit around doing nothing. More work should be provided while waiting for ceramics to harden in molds. I did not have enough support. I am disappointed. The Ceramics Workshop was what attracted me to Tlaquepaque. I do not like to be a quitter. BUT que sera, sera ..... and as I always say, things happen for a reason. I guess that I will need to wait and see.
Jo and I walked home together stopping to sample one of the local specialties - Torta Ahogada. This is a torpedo shaped crusty roll filled with shredded pork and has a tomato salsa poured over it. You dip as you eat. Not bad. Just be sure to have a good supply of napkins available.
Sun starts setting at around 6:30 pm. I observed the sky painted with shades of scarlett as I walked west toward the center of Tlaquepaque. As the sun descends into the horizon, temperatures cool, lights come on, people come out. The plaza comes to life. It is like watering a thirsty garden and watching life return. Friday night means music in the streets and the park. I took a long walk stopping to listen to the performers....and to watch the listeners. Of course there are the nightly vendors of local specialties. I purposely skipped dinner so that I would have room to try a couple of selections. Dessert first - tequila ice cream. Not bad.....cool, refreshing, and a pleasant taste.
Roasted ears of corn are very popular. They lo0k tempting, but, I decided to opt for the corn that had been removed from the cob. The corn is steamed and scooped onto a long narrow styrofoam dish. Creama (light cream?) and shredded cheese are poured on the corn. Looks delicious. How does it taste? Well, the corn is not sweet. It is kind of starchy. The added sauce helps. Would I order it again? Nope....I will try something else.
The vendors also sell cups filled with what I learned are steamed garbanzo beans in their green shells. It appears that you eat the whole thing. The woman offered to let me try one. Check garbanzo beans off the list. The shell is kind of pithy. Still have not tried the fried grasshoppers. Maybe tomorrow.
Ceramics Workshop. I know that I need to plan ahead and create my own designs. Later today, I will find a bookstore and purchase a book with illustrations of ceramic designs. I will work hard drawing the designs and be ready by Monday to transfer my designs to ceramic pieces. I feel good about this. Finished painting a cup and saucer and gave myself credit that they look pretty good. Ah, success.
Then, I learn that there will be NO Ceramic Workshop on Monday, as that is a holiday - the birthday of Benito Juarez. This, I understand. Still, I was grumbling to myself.....that I paid for ten days and was getting shorted by one day less. I kept silent about this. And then, I am told that everything must be painted by Tuesday afternoon as they plan to fire the kiln that night. I can do no more painting after Tuesday. That gives me one day, Tuesday, to do everything. So what am I to do on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday??? Sylvie said to come in on Saturday and Sunday to paint...but, I would be alone in the factory. I have made other plans so that is not an option.
At that point, I lost it and said that I quit!! Went back to the school and told Walter that I would take two extra hours of Spanish each day, in place of the workshop.
Where does the fault lie??? Agenda of workshop should have been explained more clearly. It should not be scheduled from Monday through Friday if there will be nothing to do for three of the days during the final week. They should not charge for three days of nothing.....and also charge for a holiday when they are closed They should have examples of designs to copy. They should not allow students to sit around doing nothing. More work should be provided while waiting for ceramics to harden in molds. I did not have enough support. I am disappointed. The Ceramics Workshop was what attracted me to Tlaquepaque. I do not like to be a quitter. BUT que sera, sera ..... and as I always say, things happen for a reason. I guess that I will need to wait and see.
Jo and I walked home together stopping to sample one of the local specialties - Torta Ahogada. This is a torpedo shaped crusty roll filled with shredded pork and has a tomato salsa poured over it. You dip as you eat. Not bad. Just be sure to have a good supply of napkins available.
Sun starts setting at around 6:30 pm. I observed the sky painted with shades of scarlett as I walked west toward the center of Tlaquepaque. As the sun descends into the horizon, temperatures cool, lights come on, people come out. The plaza comes to life. It is like watering a thirsty garden and watching life return. Friday night means music in the streets and the park. I took a long walk stopping to listen to the performers....and to watch the listeners. Of course there are the nightly vendors of local specialties. I purposely skipped dinner so that I would have room to try a couple of selections. Dessert first - tequila ice cream. Not bad.....cool, refreshing, and a pleasant taste.
Roasted ears of corn are very popular. They lo0k tempting, but, I decided to opt for the corn that had been removed from the cob. The corn is steamed and scooped onto a long narrow styrofoam dish. Creama (light cream?) and shredded cheese are poured on the corn. Looks delicious. How does it taste? Well, the corn is not sweet. It is kind of starchy. The added sauce helps. Would I order it again? Nope....I will try something else.
The vendors also sell cups filled with what I learned are steamed garbanzo beans in their green shells. It appears that you eat the whole thing. The woman offered to let me try one. Check garbanzo beans off the list. The shell is kind of pithy. Still have not tried the fried grasshoppers. Maybe tomorrow.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
March 12, 2009 - In Search of my Buried Creativity
Just a few thoughts as the day begins.
I started to put on my Zapatista earrings,, but had second thoughts. They may be offensive in this part of Mexico. I realized that I had not seen any indigenous people in traditional dress since I arrived. Thinking back, I cannot recall being anywhere in Mexico where the indigenous were not highly represented. I will ask Miguel about this in class today. My first clue that there might be a strong prejudice was from the young woman who sat next to me on the plane. I had told her that I liked viisiting the state of Chiapas and she replied with a negative response about the people.
Another observation is that there are very few North American (Opps, big mistake...Mexico is North America - I meant no US citizens norCanadian) or European tourists. The town is bustling with tourists.....but, they are Mexican or from other Latin American countries.
More later.....time now for breakfast.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Classtime passed quickly with two hours of conversation in spanish. No great revelations today but, time well spent.
Ceramics Workshop. I got right to work on my #7 address tile. I thought that I had done a beautiful job.Then along comes Sylvie. There were no "mal" or "feo" descriptions today.....she just scraped and sanded off the design that I had just painted on the tile and told me to do it over with her design for the flowers. I admit that my flowers were not perfect....and that is fine with me. You dont often see perfect flowers. Perhaps she is treating me as a trainee that would work for her.
Sylvie then hands me a cup and saucer and tells me to paint them. I sit there staring at them, thinking that whatever I do will be wrong. I go blank.....not an ounce of creativity. I have not a clue of how to decorate the cup. There are no stencils or copies of designs available. I take responsibility for that problem, I should have made up some designs in advance. Tonight, I will go study ceramics in shop windows and galleries., take photos and make up a copy to bring with me. At the last minute, a design came to mind and I successfully (so I think) penciled it on to the cup and proceeded to paint.
Creativity takes time. I need to slow down my pace and let any creativity that may be there come to the surface.
Dinner at Nahual - Broiled shrimp over Pesto Fetticcini (sp?).
I started to put on my Zapatista earrings,, but had second thoughts. They may be offensive in this part of Mexico. I realized that I had not seen any indigenous people in traditional dress since I arrived. Thinking back, I cannot recall being anywhere in Mexico where the indigenous were not highly represented. I will ask Miguel about this in class today. My first clue that there might be a strong prejudice was from the young woman who sat next to me on the plane. I had told her that I liked viisiting the state of Chiapas and she replied with a negative response about the people.
Another observation is that there are very few North American (Opps, big mistake...Mexico is North America - I meant no US citizens norCanadian) or European tourists. The town is bustling with tourists.....but, they are Mexican or from other Latin American countries.
More later.....time now for breakfast.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Classtime passed quickly with two hours of conversation in spanish. No great revelations today but, time well spent.
Ceramics Workshop. I got right to work on my #7 address tile. I thought that I had done a beautiful job.Then along comes Sylvie. There were no "mal" or "feo" descriptions today.....she just scraped and sanded off the design that I had just painted on the tile and told me to do it over with her design for the flowers. I admit that my flowers were not perfect....and that is fine with me. You dont often see perfect flowers. Perhaps she is treating me as a trainee that would work for her.
Sylvie then hands me a cup and saucer and tells me to paint them. I sit there staring at them, thinking that whatever I do will be wrong. I go blank.....not an ounce of creativity. I have not a clue of how to decorate the cup. There are no stencils or copies of designs available. I take responsibility for that problem, I should have made up some designs in advance. Tonight, I will go study ceramics in shop windows and galleries., take photos and make up a copy to bring with me. At the last minute, a design came to mind and I successfully (so I think) penciled it on to the cup and proceeded to paint.
Creativity takes time. I need to slow down my pace and let any creativity that may be there come to the surface.
Dinner at Nahual - Broiled shrimp over Pesto Fetticcini (sp?).
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
March 11,2009 - A Full Day
Walked through the fruit and vegetable section of the Indoor Pulbic Market on the way to school. Row upon row of vendors each with attractively displayed goods. I was there with a purpose.... to purchase avacados and tomatoes for my lunch. What a bargain......three avacados, a tomato, and a banana for fifteen pesos.....just a few cents under one US dollar. I am getting spoiled.
School went well. Miguel is so pleasant and presents and corrects in a helpful way. Ellie, my classmate, had a crown fall off her tooth and was waiting for a dental appointment. Met her later after the dentist fixed her up as good as new.......at the cost of $17. I understand from school staff that he is a dentist with an excellent reputation. If I was smart, I would get dental work done here....and it would pay for the trip. Am I planting ideas for those without dental insurance??
Ceramics class did not start out well. I had to wait twenty minutes for Sylvie, my instructor to find a pencil for me. I am not a patient person....and went looking for her a few times. She arrives with the pencil and takes a look at the tiles that I painted yesterday and says "mal" which means BAD. I did not think that they looked "bad", just "primative". Sylvie showed me a finished tile and told me to copy it. I thought that I did my best.....and once again, she comments with a negative "feo" which means "ugly". Before I lost my composition and walked out, things turned around as she showed me "how" to paint the tiles. All I needed was some instruction and it was simple. Spent the next two and a half hours enjoying the feeling of success. Across the shared workspace, there was a middle aged Mexican painter working on a large basin decorated with Day of the Dead figures. He broke the silence and asked me from where I came. We chatted briefly in Spanish and I continued my work. It was good to share the space with him.
Had only an hour long break at home before it was time to go back to the central area to take a scheduled walking tour of Tlaquepaque. Jo, Ellie and I, being Eastcoasters were anxiously waiting at the Info Booth five minutes early. Jill from the school showed up to see that we were in good hands.....and waited with us for twenty five minutes until our guide arrived. He was a police officer who peddled up on his bicycle, wearing cutoffs and what appeared to be a bulletproof vest. Why???? I did not want to hear his answer, so I did not ask.
Tony, our police escort/guide, was friendly and spoke excellent English. Walked through the interior courtyard of the Parian. Tony said that at one time there were 72 bars around the perimiter of Parian.....now there are 36. Tequila is the preferred drink. The Parian was originally built in 1878 as the major marketplace where all kinds of handicrafts were sold.
Tony's position on the police force got us into Presidencia Municipal, the Government Building after closing hours. Lovely first floor courtyard with flowers and fountain. Our attention went to a mural on three walls on next floor. This mural depicted the past, present, and future of Mexico. Well done.
We walked through Jardin Hidalgo to two churches; Parroquia de San Pedro and Santuario de Nuestra Senora de las Soledad. The latter was a rich people's church where poor peasants were beaten or killed for entering. The Parroquia was built for the general public. There is a spring under the Santuario which is believed to have healing powers. Once a year, believers are allowed to go down the interior steps to test the water's powers.
El Refugio Cultural Center was once a hospital run by the Josefina Nuns. They are long gone and work continues today to make this a fine center for the arts. Our guide got himself in trouble for taking us up to the roof top to see the views of the city. Beautiful from up there.....just hope he does not lose his job.
A few blocks away was the Museo Panteleon Panduro, located in the lovely Chapel Patio of the Refugio Cultural Center. It is the proud seat of the National Ceramic Prize and displays present and past winners. The work there is excuisite. I plan to return as we did not have time to fully absorb every piece. We silently entered the former chapel when we heard beautiful instumental music and a trained operatic female voice. It was a joy to listen.
By the time we reached Independencia, the pedestrian walkway, with its shops, galleries and restaurant it was almost 7:00 pm and most galleries were closing. We thanked and said good bye to Tony as this was the final destination of our walking tour.
Jo and I had dinner at el Patio http://www.elpatio.com.mx/ My main course was chicken breast with a mole sauce. We were going to have a Margarita as a starter.....but, our waiter recommended a specialty of the house. Much to our surprise this tequila and fruit drink was served in a large soup bowl.....one for each of us. Delicious.....not sure of how much tequila was in the drink....did not feel anything....but, it was a great thirst quencher.
This was an interest packed day. What will tomorrow bring?
School went well. Miguel is so pleasant and presents and corrects in a helpful way. Ellie, my classmate, had a crown fall off her tooth and was waiting for a dental appointment. Met her later after the dentist fixed her up as good as new.......at the cost of $17. I understand from school staff that he is a dentist with an excellent reputation. If I was smart, I would get dental work done here....and it would pay for the trip. Am I planting ideas for those without dental insurance??
Ceramics class did not start out well. I had to wait twenty minutes for Sylvie, my instructor to find a pencil for me. I am not a patient person....and went looking for her a few times. She arrives with the pencil and takes a look at the tiles that I painted yesterday and says "mal" which means BAD. I did not think that they looked "bad", just "primative". Sylvie showed me a finished tile and told me to copy it. I thought that I did my best.....and once again, she comments with a negative "feo" which means "ugly". Before I lost my composition and walked out, things turned around as she showed me "how" to paint the tiles. All I needed was some instruction and it was simple. Spent the next two and a half hours enjoying the feeling of success. Across the shared workspace, there was a middle aged Mexican painter working on a large basin decorated with Day of the Dead figures. He broke the silence and asked me from where I came. We chatted briefly in Spanish and I continued my work. It was good to share the space with him.
Had only an hour long break at home before it was time to go back to the central area to take a scheduled walking tour of Tlaquepaque. Jo, Ellie and I, being Eastcoasters were anxiously waiting at the Info Booth five minutes early. Jill from the school showed up to see that we were in good hands.....and waited with us for twenty five minutes until our guide arrived. He was a police officer who peddled up on his bicycle, wearing cutoffs and what appeared to be a bulletproof vest. Why???? I did not want to hear his answer, so I did not ask.
Tony, our police escort/guide, was friendly and spoke excellent English. Walked through the interior courtyard of the Parian. Tony said that at one time there were 72 bars around the perimiter of Parian.....now there are 36. Tequila is the preferred drink. The Parian was originally built in 1878 as the major marketplace where all kinds of handicrafts were sold.
Tony's position on the police force got us into Presidencia Municipal, the Government Building after closing hours. Lovely first floor courtyard with flowers and fountain. Our attention went to a mural on three walls on next floor. This mural depicted the past, present, and future of Mexico. Well done.
We walked through Jardin Hidalgo to two churches; Parroquia de San Pedro and Santuario de Nuestra Senora de las Soledad. The latter was a rich people's church where poor peasants were beaten or killed for entering. The Parroquia was built for the general public. There is a spring under the Santuario which is believed to have healing powers. Once a year, believers are allowed to go down the interior steps to test the water's powers.
El Refugio Cultural Center was once a hospital run by the Josefina Nuns. They are long gone and work continues today to make this a fine center for the arts. Our guide got himself in trouble for taking us up to the roof top to see the views of the city. Beautiful from up there.....just hope he does not lose his job.
A few blocks away was the Museo Panteleon Panduro, located in the lovely Chapel Patio of the Refugio Cultural Center. It is the proud seat of the National Ceramic Prize and displays present and past winners. The work there is excuisite. I plan to return as we did not have time to fully absorb every piece. We silently entered the former chapel when we heard beautiful instumental music and a trained operatic female voice. It was a joy to listen.
By the time we reached Independencia, the pedestrian walkway, with its shops, galleries and restaurant it was almost 7:00 pm and most galleries were closing. We thanked and said good bye to Tony as this was the final destination of our walking tour.
Jo and I had dinner at el Patio http://www.elpatio.com.mx/ My main course was chicken breast with a mole sauce. We were going to have a Margarita as a starter.....but, our waiter recommended a specialty of the house. Much to our surprise this tequila and fruit drink was served in a large soup bowl.....one for each of us. Delicious.....not sure of how much tequila was in the drink....did not feel anything....but, it was a great thirst quencher.
This was an interest packed day. What will tomorrow bring?
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
March 10, 2009 - Into a Routine
Wake up at 6:30 am wth a neghbors rooster giving a back up call. For the next two hours, I enjoy a couple cups of tea, a bowl of oatmeal, shower, and complete homework.
Each day, I try a different route on my ten minute walk to school. Unlike most Latin American cities, Tlaquepaque's sidewalks are in pretty good shape. I arrive at 8:55 and wonder where eveyone else might be....classes start at 9:00. Nine oclock comes and goes......and then people trickle in. I must readjust my mindset to Mexican time.
Class discussion only reminds me of what I do not know. This time at school, I am not very serious about learning Spanish. I pass the time with pleasant conversation in espanol. I did learn a few things.....one is very important. The word "que" means "what". I have known that for fifty plus years. What I did not know was that it is RUDE to say "que" to someone when you did not hear what he said or did not understand. I always reply with"que" under those circumstances. Instead I should reply "mande" The other bit of trivia is that the word for "popcorn" is "palomitas" (little doves). I like that....picturing the popping corn as little birds flying.
Ceramics Worksh0p - continue to work with the tiles that I poured yesterday. They needed to sanded down so edges and tops are smooth. The back of tile intentionally has ridges so that adhesive will adhere. Next step is more fun......the painting of the tiles. All of a sudden, I need to come up with a design. Should have planned ahead. Cobie suggested that I use the design of the "Guatemalan Girls" that I have on my necklace. So that was the subject of my first tiles.
I did not feel that I was given enough instruction....or perhaps it was not necessary. I want to know what the paint is made of, cann I cover yellow with blue to make green?? And am I using enough of it. I was pretty much on my own. Their brushes are far from good. Hard to make exact lines or details. Oh well, I wanted to learn the process and tomorrow is another day.
10:15 pm......This is the latest that I have stayed out. Kate, Karin, Connie, Barbara, and Malia, came by for a visit and we went across the street and ate dinner at La Unica. Had their pozole
again....this time with the traditional pork instead of chicken. It was good....but, I think that I prefer pozole witgh chicken. Took a walk around town and then enjoyed Margaritas at El Nahual. They have a cello and piano duo each evening after nine o'clock. It was not Mexican music...but, I enjoyed listening.
Said goodnight to my friends. They will take a taxi back to Guadalajara and I walked three blocks home. It feels very safe and comfortable to walk around the neighborhood at night. Not many people out ....but, those who are seem to be families.
My friends have rented a car and will go to Lake Chapala and Ajijic tomorrow. They have reservations for a couple of days and then will explore further. They will be back in Tlaquepaque for the nights of March 19 and 20., and will stay at the nearby La Luna Hotel.
Buenos noches, mis amigos y amigas.
Each day, I try a different route on my ten minute walk to school. Unlike most Latin American cities, Tlaquepaque's sidewalks are in pretty good shape. I arrive at 8:55 and wonder where eveyone else might be....classes start at 9:00. Nine oclock comes and goes......and then people trickle in. I must readjust my mindset to Mexican time.
Class discussion only reminds me of what I do not know. This time at school, I am not very serious about learning Spanish. I pass the time with pleasant conversation in espanol. I did learn a few things.....one is very important. The word "que" means "what". I have known that for fifty plus years. What I did not know was that it is RUDE to say "que" to someone when you did not hear what he said or did not understand. I always reply with"que" under those circumstances. Instead I should reply "mande" The other bit of trivia is that the word for "popcorn" is "palomitas" (little doves). I like that....picturing the popping corn as little birds flying.
Ceramics Worksh0p - continue to work with the tiles that I poured yesterday. They needed to sanded down so edges and tops are smooth. The back of tile intentionally has ridges so that adhesive will adhere. Next step is more fun......the painting of the tiles. All of a sudden, I need to come up with a design. Should have planned ahead. Cobie suggested that I use the design of the "Guatemalan Girls" that I have on my necklace. So that was the subject of my first tiles.
I did not feel that I was given enough instruction....or perhaps it was not necessary. I want to know what the paint is made of, cann I cover yellow with blue to make green?? And am I using enough of it. I was pretty much on my own. Their brushes are far from good. Hard to make exact lines or details. Oh well, I wanted to learn the process and tomorrow is another day.
10:15 pm......This is the latest that I have stayed out. Kate, Karin, Connie, Barbara, and Malia, came by for a visit and we went across the street and ate dinner at La Unica. Had their pozole
again....this time with the traditional pork instead of chicken. It was good....but, I think that I prefer pozole witgh chicken. Took a walk around town and then enjoyed Margaritas at El Nahual. They have a cello and piano duo each evening after nine o'clock. It was not Mexican music...but, I enjoyed listening.
Said goodnight to my friends. They will take a taxi back to Guadalajara and I walked three blocks home. It feels very safe and comfortable to walk around the neighborhood at night. Not many people out ....but, those who are seem to be families.
My friends have rented a car and will go to Lake Chapala and Ajijic tomorrow. They have reservations for a couple of days and then will explore further. They will be back in Tlaquepaque for the nights of March 19 and 20., and will stay at the nearby La Luna Hotel.
Buenos noches, mis amigos y amigas.
Monday, March 9, 2009
March 9,2009 Classes Begin
Tlaquepaque Language Center is less than fifteen minutes by foot from my apartment. The school is not a big one......but, totally adequate. I have a good instructor, Miguel, and a pleasant classroom. There is one other student, Ellie from New Jersey. Our first day (two hour class) was conversational with contructive corrections from Miguel. We are learning the subjunctive tense......"I have been to China" vs "I went to China".
The "Ceramicas" instructions are to run from 11:30 - 2:30 each day, Monday through Friday. I had no idea of what to expect...but, knew that it would be another adventure. I followed directions and went down Calle Horno (horno translated is oven). Walked down one block and then for the next several blocks there was a Monday Street Market. In addition to some tired looking vegetables, there were mostly used goods. It was like a huge garage sale. I am sure, but they may have had new items,,, I did not see any. Did not really take time to enjoy this as I could not find the Fabrica de Ceramicas. After asking for directions found that it was behind some of the vendors' tents. Entered the fabrica (kind of like factory) and met Sylvia an owner of this family business.
Sylvia welcomed me with her limited Spanish......and then turned me over to "Cobie" (Jacob) her charming, good looking, nineteen year old son. Cobie's English is excellent right down to his American accent. Together Sylvia and Cobie taught me the first steps to making ceramics.
The interior of this fabrica is made up of a small office and all around the open courtyard or plaza centrales there were storage areas holding sink basins, tiles, clothes hooks, dishes, etc. Do they have a shop or gallery? No.....they make decorative ceramics for hotels in the US, Canada, and Salamanca, Spain. I see a huge amount of undecorated ceramic ware......many basins, but, only one painter. I ask why there is only one for so much work???? Business is DOWN. If/when, there is a demand for the finished goods, they call in local painters to get the work done.
Tiles (azulejos) would be my first endeavor. A mold must be made first. Four pieces of an existing mold maker are cleaned with a dry sponge to get rid of loose particles. Soapy water is brushed over all surfaces so that the finished mold will slip away easily. Next, three quarts of yeso was mixed with one and a half quarts of water. Yeso has the consistency of flour. The mix is kneaded getting rid of all the lumps. Mold maker is pieced together with a large rubber band (from a tire) holding the four pieces firmly in place. The yeso mix is poured into the two molds. There is one mold for each side of the tile. After about a half hour a chemical reaction takes place due to mixing yeso with water. The poured mixture hardens and turns hot. When firmness is correct, rubber band is removed and the two pieces of the new tile mold are place out in the sun to dry and harden.
Meanwhile, I line up ten two piece tile molds, back to back in a row about a yard long. All ten are tied together to avoid slipage. A mixture of "ceramic pasta" and water is made. I have no idea of what this would be in English. When I try to Google an answer......there are many to choose from....but, all in spanish. I go back and forth along this row pouring this mixture into the small, narrow two inch openings at the top of each mold. As it settles, I need to pour more and more pasta into each. I do this for a half hour. And then I must wait for this to harden. When ready, molds are opened and tiles removed. More about this tomorrow when I reach that step.
It is quite comfortable working along the edge of the open area. There is a roof overhead for protection from the strong rays of the sun, yet it is pleasantly airy.
By the time 2:30 comes around, I am tired, dirty, and hungry. Large super market is two blocks away and I am thinking of the guacamole that I will make for my lunch. Need to pick up tomatoes, onion, mayo, and garlic. Already have the avacados and limon. Purchases made and I am on my way back to 5 de Mayo and my delicious lunch.
Jo and I sat out in the shade of the garden walls. Very comfortable. By 6:30, we were ready for dinner. Between 5 de Mayo and el Parian, there is a restaurant named "El Nahual" (located Juarez 17). Jill recommended the restaurant highly and after eating there, I agree with her 100%. The ambiance is excellent. Waitstaff is attentive. My meal of pork medallions with plum sauce, mashed bananas, and fresh vegetables was served with attractive presentation. Best of all, the flavor.....outstanding. Will write to Trip Advisor and give El Nahual a top rating.
In the cool of the evening (long sleeves needed) it was a perfect time to walk around the town parks and pedestrian areas. The lights of the churches were in great contrast to the dark sky. Vendors were selling roasted corn on the cob, fruits, pork rinds, ice cream, jicama, and beverages. Families were enjoying the parks.....children playing while parents chatted on park benches.....just like it was the middle of the day. Since this is the most comfortable time of day (8pm) it was time to socialize before going home to eat cena. The main meal is shared by the family from 2pm - 4pm and the cena is a light meal of perhaps cereal or tacos eaten at 9pm or later......kind of like a before bed snack.
OK.....enough procrastinating, I must do my tarea (homework)........ten sentences correctly using he, has, ha, hemos, han.......forms of haber. So Buenos Noches Luna......hasta manana.
The "Ceramicas" instructions are to run from 11:30 - 2:30 each day, Monday through Friday. I had no idea of what to expect...but, knew that it would be another adventure. I followed directions and went down Calle Horno (horno translated is oven). Walked down one block and then for the next several blocks there was a Monday Street Market. In addition to some tired looking vegetables, there were mostly used goods. It was like a huge garage sale. I am sure, but they may have had new items,,, I did not see any. Did not really take time to enjoy this as I could not find the Fabrica de Ceramicas. After asking for directions found that it was behind some of the vendors' tents. Entered the fabrica (kind of like factory) and met Sylvia an owner of this family business.
Sylvia welcomed me with her limited Spanish......and then turned me over to "Cobie" (Jacob) her charming, good looking, nineteen year old son. Cobie's English is excellent right down to his American accent. Together Sylvia and Cobie taught me the first steps to making ceramics.
The interior of this fabrica is made up of a small office and all around the open courtyard or plaza centrales there were storage areas holding sink basins, tiles, clothes hooks, dishes, etc. Do they have a shop or gallery? No.....they make decorative ceramics for hotels in the US, Canada, and Salamanca, Spain. I see a huge amount of undecorated ceramic ware......many basins, but, only one painter. I ask why there is only one for so much work???? Business is DOWN. If/when, there is a demand for the finished goods, they call in local painters to get the work done.
Tiles (azulejos) would be my first endeavor. A mold must be made first. Four pieces of an existing mold maker are cleaned with a dry sponge to get rid of loose particles. Soapy water is brushed over all surfaces so that the finished mold will slip away easily. Next, three quarts of yeso was mixed with one and a half quarts of water. Yeso has the consistency of flour. The mix is kneaded getting rid of all the lumps. Mold maker is pieced together with a large rubber band (from a tire) holding the four pieces firmly in place. The yeso mix is poured into the two molds. There is one mold for each side of the tile. After about a half hour a chemical reaction takes place due to mixing yeso with water. The poured mixture hardens and turns hot. When firmness is correct, rubber band is removed and the two pieces of the new tile mold are place out in the sun to dry and harden.
Meanwhile, I line up ten two piece tile molds, back to back in a row about a yard long. All ten are tied together to avoid slipage. A mixture of "ceramic pasta" and water is made. I have no idea of what this would be in English. When I try to Google an answer......there are many to choose from....but, all in spanish. I go back and forth along this row pouring this mixture into the small, narrow two inch openings at the top of each mold. As it settles, I need to pour more and more pasta into each. I do this for a half hour. And then I must wait for this to harden. When ready, molds are opened and tiles removed. More about this tomorrow when I reach that step.
It is quite comfortable working along the edge of the open area. There is a roof overhead for protection from the strong rays of the sun, yet it is pleasantly airy.
By the time 2:30 comes around, I am tired, dirty, and hungry. Large super market is two blocks away and I am thinking of the guacamole that I will make for my lunch. Need to pick up tomatoes, onion, mayo, and garlic. Already have the avacados and limon. Purchases made and I am on my way back to 5 de Mayo and my delicious lunch.
Jo and I sat out in the shade of the garden walls. Very comfortable. By 6:30, we were ready for dinner. Between 5 de Mayo and el Parian, there is a restaurant named "El Nahual" (located Juarez 17). Jill recommended the restaurant highly and after eating there, I agree with her 100%. The ambiance is excellent. Waitstaff is attentive. My meal of pork medallions with plum sauce, mashed bananas, and fresh vegetables was served with attractive presentation. Best of all, the flavor.....outstanding. Will write to Trip Advisor and give El Nahual a top rating.
In the cool of the evening (long sleeves needed) it was a perfect time to walk around the town parks and pedestrian areas. The lights of the churches were in great contrast to the dark sky. Vendors were selling roasted corn on the cob, fruits, pork rinds, ice cream, jicama, and beverages. Families were enjoying the parks.....children playing while parents chatted on park benches.....just like it was the middle of the day. Since this is the most comfortable time of day (8pm) it was time to socialize before going home to eat cena. The main meal is shared by the family from 2pm - 4pm and the cena is a light meal of perhaps cereal or tacos eaten at 9pm or later......kind of like a before bed snack.
OK.....enough procrastinating, I must do my tarea (homework)........ten sentences correctly using he, has, ha, hemos, han.......forms of haber. So Buenos Noches Luna......hasta manana.
Sunday, March 8, 2009
March 8,2009 Getting Acquainted with Tlaquepaque
Leisurely start to the day. Great night's sleep as temps dropped to the low 70s inside my apartment and low 40's outdoors. Feeling more like home except I am not wearing multiple layers.
Jo arrived without mishap in the middle of the night. She was VERY happy to be met at the airport by Jill with apartment key in hand. Jo is my next door neighbor for the next two weeks.
On Sundays from 8am - 2pm, there is a biking, skating, walking route on the main streets between Tlaquepaque and Guadalajara. The streets are closed to motor vehicles. . It was a joy to see families out on their bikes. There was even a young boy on roller skates being followed by his small, panting, dog. I did not see tourists.....only Mexicans. My school offers this bike ride as one of their activities. Will I rent a bike and follow the locals next Sunday???
Jo and I ate a tipical Mexican breakfast of fruit and chiliquiles in a bright, cheery restaurant with its front open to the street. Jo requested cafe con leche (coffee with milk). She received a cup of hot milk.....and a jar of instant coffee. For her next cup....she tried ordering Cafe Americana....and it was made in the automatic coffee maker as we have at home.
We had no destination but walked along the main avenue and then a pedestrian walkway windows shopping and browsing in the many galleries and shops. If I had never been to Mexico before, I would find it difficult to pass by the wonderful pieces of art. When attracted by a painting.....I thought of the stack of unframed art pieces at home. The pottery and glassware were so beautiful......but, how would I ever get them home safely.....and then what would I do with them?? Ah, the day passed and no purchases.
Parian is the heart of Tlaquepaque. It is a square of restaurants sharing the same open courtyard. In the center is a large gazebo with a raised stage for performances of dancers, musicians, and singers. Parian and Tlaquepaque are the home of Mariachis. Huge jacaranda trees heavily laden with lavender blossoms shade the courtyard. Mariachis senenade the diners.
We were not back to our apartments for long when the intercome rang and the screen showed my friends Kate, Connie, and Karin.out at the front gate. It was good to connect with them. They are staying at a hostel in Guadalajara and had been to the 9:30 am performance of the Ballet Folklorico. From Guadalajara they took a bus to Tonola where they searched for the Sunday Craft Market with no success......until they passed it riding on the bus on their way out of town.
We visited for a good hour catching up on adventures and book recommendations. Hope that they come back tomorrow night and join Jo and me for dinner.
Dinner across the street at Olivia's Restaurant.
Tomorrow, classes at school and ceramics workshop begin. The next chapter of life's adventure.
Jo arrived without mishap in the middle of the night. She was VERY happy to be met at the airport by Jill with apartment key in hand. Jo is my next door neighbor for the next two weeks.
On Sundays from 8am - 2pm, there is a biking, skating, walking route on the main streets between Tlaquepaque and Guadalajara. The streets are closed to motor vehicles. . It was a joy to see families out on their bikes. There was even a young boy on roller skates being followed by his small, panting, dog. I did not see tourists.....only Mexicans. My school offers this bike ride as one of their activities. Will I rent a bike and follow the locals next Sunday???
Jo and I ate a tipical Mexican breakfast of fruit and chiliquiles in a bright, cheery restaurant with its front open to the street. Jo requested cafe con leche (coffee with milk). She received a cup of hot milk.....and a jar of instant coffee. For her next cup....she tried ordering Cafe Americana....and it was made in the automatic coffee maker as we have at home.
We had no destination but walked along the main avenue and then a pedestrian walkway windows shopping and browsing in the many galleries and shops. If I had never been to Mexico before, I would find it difficult to pass by the wonderful pieces of art. When attracted by a painting.....I thought of the stack of unframed art pieces at home. The pottery and glassware were so beautiful......but, how would I ever get them home safely.....and then what would I do with them?? Ah, the day passed and no purchases.
Parian is the heart of Tlaquepaque. It is a square of restaurants sharing the same open courtyard. In the center is a large gazebo with a raised stage for performances of dancers, musicians, and singers. Parian and Tlaquepaque are the home of Mariachis. Huge jacaranda trees heavily laden with lavender blossoms shade the courtyard. Mariachis senenade the diners.
We were not back to our apartments for long when the intercome rang and the screen showed my friends Kate, Connie, and Karin.out at the front gate. It was good to connect with them. They are staying at a hostel in Guadalajara and had been to the 9:30 am performance of the Ballet Folklorico. From Guadalajara they took a bus to Tonola where they searched for the Sunday Craft Market with no success......until they passed it riding on the bus on their way out of town.
We visited for a good hour catching up on adventures and book recommendations. Hope that they come back tomorrow night and join Jo and me for dinner.
Dinner across the street at Olivia's Restaurant.
Tomorrow, classes at school and ceramics workshop begin. The next chapter of life's adventure.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
March 7, 2009 Tlaquepaque, Mexico
This has been a very long day. All went well...no delays. Last night, I stayed at the Wyndham Chelsea Hotel, not too far from Logan Airport. Beautiful rooms. Excellent restaurant. They offer Stay, Park, Fly packages at a reasonable rate.....if you want to leave your car for up to two weeks. Anna met me for dinner .....nice way to start a holiday.
Up at 3:15 am for the 4 am shuttle to the airport. 6am flight to Dallas. Lots of "spring breakers" so flights were full. Long lines at Logan. You would never know that it was so early.
All flights were on time. Did not mind the two hour connection. Arrived in Guadalajara in mid-afternoon. My stars must have been in line.....as everything went so smoothly. Had two seats on the full plane.... My luggage was one of the first off the plane. I was met by Jill, an American working for the Guadlajara Language Center. Jill and her Mexican fiance gave me an orientation of Tlaquepaque on our way to 84 Cinco de Mayo and Olivia's Apartments, located three blocks from the main square.....Parian.
I commented to Jill that the landscape seemed dry. She agreed and said that winter was over, they had had their two weeks of Spring......and now it is Summer. It is warm, temps in the upper 70s. Not bad when you walk in the shade.
My condo is spacious, clean, and airy. My bedroom' sliding doors face my walled in garden and patio. Other than the dogs and roosters, it is quiet. I consider this VERY quiet for Mexico. I do not hear much street noise.
Unpacked and immediately checked to see if my Dell wifi mini computer would work. Again...a bit of luck. It works. What a convenience to not have to look for cyber-cafes.
In addition to the apartments, Olivia owns the little restaurant across the street. When I went to pay my $300 rent for my two week stay, the aroma from the kitchen beaconed me to sit down for a meal. It was only 5:00 pm, but, I had not eaten for hours and how could I pass up a meal. Started with tostadas and guacamole, followed by pozole....a wonderful soup made with lots of shredded chicken, shredded cabbage, radishes, and hominy. It was the best I have ever had. To top it off I enjoyed Tacate Light beer in a glass with ice, lime juice, and a rim of salt. I am not a beer drinker, but that could become my drink of choice in Mexico. How much was this filling meal? 38 pesos....and I rounded it off to 50 pesos. When I checked my chart, I saw that this was less than $4 US. I also had a larger cooler of water delivered.....for a whopping 25 pesos.....less than $2.
Walked around town to get the lay of the land. Looks like there is much to see and do. I am home early tonight and will explore further tomorrow.
Why is the Guadalajara area special to me? Fifty years ago, my parents visited Guadalajara, Tlaquepaque, and Lake Chapala. They liked it so much that my father decided to retire and move the family there. My siblings and I were young.....6, 15, and 17. Decision was made......I would go to the University of Guadalajara. Our house was immeRediately put on the market. Months passed...and no offers. My Dad's dream and early retirement were over...and he went back to work. I left for a life in New York City. None of us .....until today....made it back to Guadalajara.
Up at 3:15 am for the 4 am shuttle to the airport. 6am flight to Dallas. Lots of "spring breakers" so flights were full. Long lines at Logan. You would never know that it was so early.
All flights were on time. Did not mind the two hour connection. Arrived in Guadalajara in mid-afternoon. My stars must have been in line.....as everything went so smoothly. Had two seats on the full plane.... My luggage was one of the first off the plane. I was met by Jill, an American working for the Guadlajara Language Center. Jill and her Mexican fiance gave me an orientation of Tlaquepaque on our way to 84 Cinco de Mayo and Olivia's Apartments, located three blocks from the main square.....Parian.
I commented to Jill that the landscape seemed dry. She agreed and said that winter was over, they had had their two weeks of Spring......and now it is Summer. It is warm, temps in the upper 70s. Not bad when you walk in the shade.
My condo is spacious, clean, and airy. My bedroom' sliding doors face my walled in garden and patio. Other than the dogs and roosters, it is quiet. I consider this VERY quiet for Mexico. I do not hear much street noise.
Unpacked and immediately checked to see if my Dell wifi mini computer would work. Again...a bit of luck. It works. What a convenience to not have to look for cyber-cafes.
In addition to the apartments, Olivia owns the little restaurant across the street. When I went to pay my $300 rent for my two week stay, the aroma from the kitchen beaconed me to sit down for a meal. It was only 5:00 pm, but, I had not eaten for hours and how could I pass up a meal. Started with tostadas and guacamole, followed by pozole....a wonderful soup made with lots of shredded chicken, shredded cabbage, radishes, and hominy. It was the best I have ever had. To top it off I enjoyed Tacate Light beer in a glass with ice, lime juice, and a rim of salt. I am not a beer drinker, but that could become my drink of choice in Mexico. How much was this filling meal? 38 pesos....and I rounded it off to 50 pesos. When I checked my chart, I saw that this was less than $4 US. I also had a larger cooler of water delivered.....for a whopping 25 pesos.....less than $2.
Walked around town to get the lay of the land. Looks like there is much to see and do. I am home early tonight and will explore further tomorrow.
Why is the Guadalajara area special to me? Fifty years ago, my parents visited Guadalajara, Tlaquepaque, and Lake Chapala. They liked it so much that my father decided to retire and move the family there. My siblings and I were young.....6, 15, and 17. Decision was made......I would go to the University of Guadalajara. Our house was immeRediately put on the market. Months passed...and no offers. My Dad's dream and early retirement were over...and he went back to work. I left for a life in New York City. None of us .....until today....made it back to Guadalajara.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Olivia's Apartments Upgrade
Good news. Because Olivia needs "Casita Camelia" for a long term rental she offered to rent her largest apartment to me at the agreed upon rent of $150 per week. I am delighted. This apartment has it's own patio and garden. What a wonderful place to sit and study each afternoon. http://oliviasapartments.com/all_olivia_pages/casita_lirio_blanco.html
There are all sorts of warnings on the news telling travelers not to go to Mexico. I feel very safe in Tlaquepaque. I have no fears of continuing on to La Paz for our camping and sea kayaking week.
There are all sorts of warnings on the news telling travelers not to go to Mexico. I feel very safe in Tlaquepaque. I have no fears of continuing on to La Paz for our camping and sea kayaking week.
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